19 February 1881 - 'Seasonable Dress and How to Make It'

A few seasons ago the backs of our dress bodices were ornamented, or, perhaps, rather disfigured, by either six or seven seams, two or even three side forms, and a back seam being the ordinary number. Now as we have once again reverted to the old style of one centre seam, as, although three joins are allowed, the best cut dresses show only the centre one, the other being brought so far under the arm as to be practically invisible. This change will be a great comfort to the amateur dressmaker, and will be an encouragement to those of "Our girls" who aspire to make their dresses at home. In fact, if the promised change should be brought about, of having no seams under the arms at all, the work of manufacturing a bodice will be quite reduced to half the usual amount. The spring models seem to portend a reduction in the seams of our sleeves as well, for some of them have no join on the outside, from the shoulder to the elbow, the top and under parts of the sleeve, so far, being cut in one piece. Of course, below the elbow the shape could not be retained if there were not a seam both at the back and the front. The sleeve is set as high into the bodice as ever, as everyone still appears to wish to look square-shouldered and narrow-backed. Of course, a certain amount of adherence to the prevailing fashions, so as to avoid attracting attention, is desirable, but we trust that all our young readers will avoid extremes in this, as in all other matters connected with dress. Of course, the natural place  for the seam is at the point of the shoulder, and there is no doubt that our dear Princess of Wales recognised this fact when she insisted on having her dress shoulder-seams cut like the Prince's coats; and banished all long and ill-fitting shoulders from her wardrobe.

The prettiest shape of the season for bonnets is, perhaps, the very sensible and moderate-sized "Granny bonnet," which has sometimes a round front, and at other times one bent down in the centre, after the fashion of the well-known "Marie Stuart Head-dress." We saw a perfectly plain velvet one, the other day, edged with a row of medium-sized black beads all round it, and no other trimming save two silk pompoms, and a cord of black chenille. This form is very suitable  for the mantles, as they are now worn, as they prevent the head from assuming that pin-head shape, so often found fault with when the very small Princess-shaped bonnet is worn with a large cloak. We think these "Granny bonnets" will probably be great favourites all through the summer, and they can be manufactured at home by a clever girl. They require to be seen, however, and the shape is easily obtained. They are all of one material - velvet, plush, or satin; or the crown may be lighter than the front. The sole trimmings often consist of the satin ribbon strings, which are placed along the joining of the crown to the front, where they are tied in drooping bows on the top.

A young lady's small-sized bonnet is shown on p.321, beginning from the left side in our monthly illustration. The bonnet itself is of brown straw, with brown velvet trimmings and strings, and a wreath of autumn leaves in brown, red and yellow. The dress is a brown Vicuna, made with a long over-jacket of the same, which is edged with a brown fur trimming; a small cape of the same completes the costume. The front of the tunic is pointed, and the back of it is seen on the next figure. The skirt is of silk, satin or other material, the small hemmed flounces being placed on a stout foundation of alpaca. We have before now pointed out the economical nature of these tiny flounces, and how easily an old dress may be made into an excellent skirt with their help, the foundations only being new.

Fig.2 wears one of the new jacket-mantles, which, having been so lately introduced, will be much in use for the early spring; they are a most useful form of out-door covering. The jacket has loose fronts with pockets, the back being plain at the top, and the plaited portion added on to it to bring it even in length with the front. The material is a black and white checked tweed; the round cape is similar in shape to those worn some years ago and called "Inverness." The hood is of tweed, lined with striped silk.

Fig.3 is a simple walking dress, of blue serge, or cloth. The skirt being kilted, with a shawl drapery as an over-skirt, the bodice is a woven "Jersey" of a colour to match the skirt; the cuffs and capes are of blue velveteen. This dress requires no trimming, and is easily made up at home.

Fig.4 is a pretty at-home evening dress. The skirt and pointed bodice are made of velveteen, the under bodice and pointed tunic of some thin material, such as striped grenadine, Indian silk, or plain white cashmere. The pointed cuffs are also of velveteen, and the neck is finished by a ruching of lace and a black velvet band. There are lace frillings at the wrist.

The fifth figure is intended to be a representation of one of the much talked of aesthetic dresses. Perhaps the more proper name for them would really be "pictorial," for they generally may be found to be adaptations from a famous portrait of some historic beauty of past centuries. Any endeavour to improve dress in this way is much to be desired, as such fashions are not changeable and foolish as many of the ephemeral styles of the present day, and may be worn always, without fear of the beholder's fault-finding. The skirt has three flounces. The polonaise is plainly cut and slightly draped; the sleeves have two puffs above the elbow, and the square cut neck has a gathered top inserted into it, and a stand-up, wired, velvet collar, with a lace frill inside it. The small velvet bag at the side has the wearer's initials on it, or an embroidered spray of flowers if preferred. The pattern would be easily cut out in paper, and the bag could be made by anyone, with little trouble. The "Queen Anne" table is illustrated in deference to the wishes of many of our correspondents who have made inquiries as to the method of making and covering them. The legs, as well as the table and shelf are all covered with plush, which is likely to sit best if sewn on with needle and thread. The fringe may be made at home, if there be any one who understands the netting of fringes.

Bodices entirely in longitudinal puffs are amongst the new spring introductions. They are very becoming to the slight figures of young girls, and hide their extreme thinness, which is very painful at times to themselves and those who see them. Some little care is needed to shape them well, but otherwise they can be made over the plain pattern usually worn, the material being first cut in a square piece, then gathered, and lastly tacked on the shaped lining, and cut to the form of it.

For serge, Vicuna, and cloth dresses the narrow silver and gold braids arranged in several rows, form a very pretty and simple trimming round the jacket and overskirt. They also are excellent to brighten up an old dress, in which category plaids must be also mentioned, and we have no doubt, as the spring proceeds, that many girls will be looking about anxiously for some simple and inexpensive way of making up their winter dresses again. The plaids are put on in flat bands, and the effect would be much heightened if they were edged by a cording of the brightest colour composing the bright lines in the pattern of the plaid. The material may be very inexpensive of which they are made, the effect being the same as if it had cost a great deal.

Much use is made of the inexpensive brightly coloured French merinos or cashmeres, which can be obtained as low in price as 1s 8d per yard, yard wide. We were shown a wonderful dress the other day made up by a young lady of very limited means, for house and evening wear at home. The short kilted skirt of black cashmere was made up from an old long dress, and the black "Jersey" had cost her 8s 9d. The ornamental additions consisted of two yards of deep red cashmere, at 1s 8d per yard, from which she had made a prettily draped scarf, placed round the top of the skirt, over the edge of the "Jersey," and also a collar and cuffs, which she had embroidered in black silk, with a pattern of ivy leaves. The small lace frill at the neck finished as pretty a little costume as could be desired, at very little expense. On account of their great usefulness, we think that "Jerseys" will continue to be worn by young girls for some time, but for older people they have very decidedly gone out of date. They were very trying to bad figures, and not generally graceful. Very pretty little necklaces of plush leaves, green or variegated, are now manufactured by young ladies for evening wear. They are made up on a wire foundation.

The next illustrations consist of a pretty cap and a fichu. The border of the cap consists of a closely-gathered lace, or net, with an embroidered edge, which is laid in a series of shells. We have lately given two illustrations of caps, as so many of our girls make those of their mothers; and we much desire to encourage them in their useful and kindly work and to induce others to follow their example also.

We likewise give designs for those most useful aids to economical dressing, fichus, as we notice that they are used more and more each month, and serve to turn a morning dress into a useful and becoming one for evening wear without much expense and with very little trouble. There are so many pretty laces just now, and though called imitation, they really should be properly named "machine," in contra-distinction to "hand-made" laces. We use so many things now that are manufactured by machine which used to be made by hand that it seems an injustice to call lace, over which the same change in its working has come, "imitation." The lace used for the neck is now laid in flat box-plaitings, or else side-plaitings, and two rows are preferable to one. The most lady-like hue is a deep cream colour, the very yellow and the very brown laces having both rather gone out of fashion, which was rather a pity, as they kept much cleaner in this island of damp and this smoke-curtained city, with its incalculable number of coal fires.

30 October 1880 - 'Seasonable Clothing and How to Make It'

It is a matter of no little comfort to all of us this season that the changeable laws which govern dress are so lenient as to permit an unlimited diversity in style and shape, and also in material, as many as four different stuffs being used in the same dress. The most popular colour is brown, which lends itself happily to all kinds of economical contrivances, and is, besides, a delightful colour, in its capacity for being enlivened by brighter hues, as well as by cream-colour, and brownish yellows. It is also a little gayer than black, although quite as serviceable, and equally neat and pretty.

Dresses are made with polonaises, quite as much as with jacket-bodices or basques. The new polonaises are long, and fasten either behind or in front; there is usually a gathering, about a quarter of a yard in length, immediately in front, which draws up the front of the polonaise into graceful folds, and the opening is finished by a looped bow with many ends. There are frequently gatherings at the middle of the waist behind and in front, extending down for some distance on the skirt; but unless the material be soft ad limp, it is never used for gathering, as thick material would never fold into the extremely close gathers now in vogue.

The coat bodice is similar to that which has been worn all the summer, which was illustrated in September at page 617, Vol.I, with a cutaway front. In our illustrations of this month (fig.1) the newest shape is given which has a double breasted front, and is more of a winter costume than the other.

In the picture at fig.2, an indoor costume is shown which is one of the novelties of the season.

And now I have described the prettiest style of dress  for the autumn and winter, we will have a little practical chat concerning our own wardrobes. It is more than probable that we have, some of us, a black cashmere, silk, or velveteen half worn-out, and not good enough for our winter dress; we should be so thankful if we could see in it the foundations of our new costume, but we do not quite know how to set about it.

If we like to take advantage of the fancy of the day, we may fearlessly mix them together, when, however bad, we shall be sure to have a presentable dress out of all three. With the present trimmed skirts such as figs.1 and 2, the foundations may be of any other material, - such as a stout alpaca - as they do not show when trimmed, and it makes a great saving in a dress; or any old skirt which is good, and not too limp, may be utilised for the purpose.

Velveteen is immensely popular this winter; the new makes are so vastly superior to the old, that they are hardly distinguishable from real velvet. A very pretty costume could be made of seal, brown velveteen, and light brownish yellow Indian cashmere, or vigogne, of the shade known as tete de faisan, which is very like the colour called cuir some years ago. The velveteen skirt would have a silk or alpaca foundation, and two kilted flounces, each about a quarter of a yard in depth. The upper dress may be of the vigogne, or cashmere, or else of estamene, or diagonal serge, and may be either a polonaise or else a jacket bodice in which case the upper skirt must be put on the top of the flounces as a trimming. A princesse dress, made short, of grenat velveteen, would also be a pretty winter dress. It might have a pinafore polonaise of some light material for wear in the evening, which would make it additionally useful. The cream-coloured, figured, Madras muslin - for instance, is very cheap, and being wide, a pinafore could be made at very little cost. If this dress be intended for a best costume, it might be well to go to the expense of procuring a little plush  for the trimming; but in using it, it should always be borne in mind that it wears badly.

In cutting out velveteen at home, it is needful to remember that there is a right and a wrong way of the material, and all the parts must be cut the same way. You must also take the fact into consideration that velveteen, if good, is always worth redipping, and that if there be too little of the good portion of a dress to make up again, it is still worth re-dying; as the well-preserved parts may be utilised with new material. I consider velveteen is entitled to a very high rank amongst the economical materials, and from its cheapness and good appearance should find a place in the wardrobe of all young people. Another nice textile is "vigogne," which is rather more expensive, but it is worth all it costs. It is very soft, and delightful to the touch, and the best material for trimming it is satin; and I know I need not press the advantages of the linen-backed satins on my readers; I must only caution them not to purchase any cheap ones, as they do not answer this purpose. To give from 3s to 4s a yard will ensure an excellent wearing quality. They are quite invaluable for doing-up old dresses, and they can be purchased in nearly every hue of the rainbow, and even the cheaper kinds, when cleverly used, look as good as satin at night.

Serge dresses are now trimmed with narrow braids; for blue serge, both black and gold braids are used, the rows being placed close together, to the number of four or five. Satin stitch embroidery with gold-coloured silk is a novelty on some of the new serge dresses, and also Roman striped scarves used as bordering bands and kiltings. Woollen plaid handkerchief dresses have succeeded the linen and cotton ones of the summer, the handkerchiefs being sold separately, in any number desired. They are of every colour, in fancy plaids, not Scotch tartans, and they are used to make whole dresses or only as trimmings. There are also numbers of fancy plaids of quiet colours, which would be very useful in re-making last winter's linsey, serge, or tweed dresses, and would make them look new and pretty again, used as scarf tunics, kiltings, gathered plastrons on the bodices, or puffs on the sleeves.

I think that I have quite exhausted the subject of dresses and dress materials, and may now proceed to mantles and jackets. The former are exceedingly large, and of the dolman shape, some with and others without sleeves, the most expensive ones being lined with plush and coloured satin, and even with velvet.

The well-known tight jackets of last season are worn this year again; the lining of the hoods is of some quiet plaid silk, the small "toque hat" being made to match of the same material. Those amongst my readers who have last year's mantles and jackets, therefore, may take heart over them, as they will be quite in the prevailing fashion this year. With regard to new ones, the newly introduced "sealskin cloth" appears to be a valuable material, moderate in price, and, so far as I can judge, everlasting in wear. I should not advise, however, that anyone should attempt to make them at home, as it is extremely difficult to make the seams join well, even professional hands finding a difficulty in making them as invisible as they should be.

The coachman's capes in fur will be worn again this year, but a more favourite method of wearing furs will be a wide-standing collar, or a large round collar attached to the mantle itself. The large fur-lined cashmere round cloaks will also be used this year, as they seem to be found too useful to relinquish, and for wearing in the winter evenings they are certainly a delightful protection from the cold.

The bonnets are very small, and the hats are very large indeed. There will be no difficulty in making our own bonnets at home,  for the shapes are all to be found in straw, and of nearly every colour. The only trimming in many cases consists of a very large long bow of silk, plush, satin, or black velvet, at the top of the bonnet, no cap or flowers inside, and no other trimming besides the strings, which are generally of the same material as the bow. An example of one of these small bonnets made of black straw, with a violet velvet bow, Parma violet wreath, and silk strings, is given at fig.3.

Stockings are still worn of a plain colour to match the dress, or else black, which is as fashionable and as serviceable as ever for morning and evening wear. Gloves are also worn to match the dress in colour; and as the generality of sleeves are short, the gloves with four buttons are the most generally adopted. Black lace scarves, wound round and round the neck, are used instead of collars, and black lace frills instead of white,  for the wrists of dresses. All these are most economical styles, and are invaluable to girls having but small allowances.

The last three illustrations are intended to help the industrious worker at home.

Fig.4 shows an easy method of trimming with two materials, which will be found available for doing-up old dresses. 

Fig.5 represents another bonnet, which will not be found difficult to copy.  

Fig.6 suggests a method of making-up an evening fichu on a wide ribbon, with lace and a suitable bouquet. 

25 September 1880 - 'Dress of the Month' by Dora de Blaquiere

The change to the autumn season is already felt, and many wise people have brought out their discarded mantles and jackets, and have gladly donned them again. The tightly-fitting, and half-fitting jackets with hoods, will, we believe, be as much used this winter as they were last; and no wonder, for they are decidedly the pleasantest, as well as the most becoming style of dress for young girls. The gaily-striped silks which were last season so much used  for the lining of these hoods, are no longer worn in that position, but have taken up another, viz., as scarfs, and half-handkerchiefs  for the neck, which are loosely knotted at the throat, the corners spreading over the back. The balayeuse, at the edge of the skirt is of the same stripe, or else of the brightest colour in it. This method of trimming forms a most happy relief to a half-worn cashmere gown.

The "toque," that most useful and easily manufactured of head-dresses, still remains in favour, and for a dress like that which I have just described the top might be made of the bright stripes, with a black velvet gathered border round the head.

The newest "toques" have a very decided brim, and those that were made in folds at the edge, like a cap without a brim, are now nowhere to be seen. The crowns are gathered in a double puff across the crown, at one-third distance from the back of the head; and the velvet edge may be either fluted or gathered, according to taste.

The "Lowlander," or "Tam o'Shanter," is probably the greatest favourite of all, and instead of being all velvet, as it was at first, is now made in straw of the finest kind, which is so supple that the crowns can be caught down at one side to the head-band just as if they were of velvet. These straws are made in bright blue, as well as corn-colour and black. The head-band used for them is of gathered velvet, a feather ruche or lace quilled up very closely. The crowns are flat, large, and round. Sometimes flowers are added at one side. Young girls from fourteen to sixteen wear coarse straw hats of brown, cream, or black, turned down at the brim with a lining of black velvet, or coloured; and large Alsatian bows, with fringed ends made from pale tartan ribbons, placed on the hat in various positions. Wide-brimmed Leghorn hats are also worn, being made into scoop-like bonnets by tying the brim down over the ears with satin strings.

So many of our girl readers seem to make caps for their mothers, and so many queries reach us on this subject, that we have (fig.1) procured a simple illustration of a pretty morning-cap, which can easily be copied. The materials consist of white muslin, Breton lace and blue ribbon, with three-quarters of a yard of ribbon wire for a foundation. The crown is lightly tacked on to the wire foundation, then the lace is to be sewn on, and finally the ribbon Of course, any other materials may be selected, but in doing so it should be remembered that the newest and prettiest caps at present are much plainer, and not nearly so gaily tinted as they were; ivory lace being in high favour, and a bunch of the simplest flowers - such as violets, heart-ease, or carnations - being the only little bit of brightness allowed.

The second illustration (fig.2) shows a pretty visite-dolman  for the autumn, Many of our readers, very probably, have mantles which they wish to alter or resuscitate; and the present is an excellent example, and shows an easy method of trimming up an antiquated shape. The leaf-like trimming is made of pinked-out silk gathered into leaves, and the lace may be Spanish of a cheap quality.

Narrow lace in very full plaitings is very much used  for the wrists of dresses, also plain deep lace, turned up on the cuffs flatly. Large collars are a new introduction, and are very becoming. They are called "Dauphines," and can be of thick Madeira work, foulard, or batiste and edged with a slightly gathered lace.

Another very charming collar for young girls is illustrated at fig.3. It is called the "Pierrot," and resembles the large collar worn by the French clowns - whence its name. It is made of fine jaconet or mull muslin, the frills being simply hemmed and then plaited flatly in small folds all one way. Although the sketch has a bow of ribbon, the collar really looks better and is more becoming when quite plain, and the frill round the neck cut straight round, and to rounded down in the fronts. It has cuffs to match if required, which are also illustrated. The other three cuffs are all intended to be worn outside the dress sleeves and are made of linen and lace, or muslin frills. They may be made also of coloured shirting if preferred, and trimmed with torchon lace, which is much to be recommended  on account of its excellent washing qualities.

Shoes are quite as much, if not more, worn than boots; and both are most stylish when made with patent leather toes and kid tops, though the former are most painful to wear, as they draw the feet so much in warm weather. It is to be hoped that none of the readers of THE GIRL'S OWN PAPER wear the sharply-pointed boots and shoes now in fashion. Not only are they ugly to the extreme when the feet are looked at in a front-view, but according to the latest medical opinion their continued use produces a distressing affection of the eyes, headache, nausea and a general malaise. Some of our authorities go so far as to say that the continual irritation leads to mental affections, and that every asylum for minds diseased can instance cases due to the caprices of fashion in this direction.

The proper form of boot or shoe should be one that follows the outlines of the natural foot, and the toes especially should be allowed a space large enough to lie uncramped. The present ideas of beauty would force us to confine out beautifully-constructed feet in moulds by production of boxes that are models of anatomical deformity.

A very pretty and simple costume of navy-blue foulard, with a band of red in it, was made up this autumn for wearing at the seaside, and a description of it will enable my readers to judge of the style in which many of the new out-of-door costumes will be made. The skirt is kilted in large plaits, and the tunic is our old acquaintance the Laveuse, or washerwoman's, which has returned amongst us, and has been received with more than its former favour. It is as simple in form as at first, being turned up toward the waist and tied at the back with a large bow, without loops, the ends falling on the rest of the Laveuse drapery. The bodice is a long basque, laced behind, and a cape of blue, reaching to the elbows, is a comfortable finish to the whole costume. There is no trimming nor decoration of any kind; the edge of the Laveuse is finished with a double line of machine hemming, and the same finishes every part. There is a decided tendency to a return to the plain tunics, which can be draped in gracefully hanging folds. With them the underskirt is covered with little flounces, which are not very full.

Polonaises are quite the newest thing of the moment; they are all long and are draped below the hips in deep folds, generally fastening at the back with buttons and a band of ribbon, all loops and ends. Velvet petticoats are much worn, and are kilted in wide folds at the edge. The velvet is also used for the puffs on the shoulders, and at the elbows, and the knot of bows behind. Waist-belts for young girls are also much in favour, the bodices worn with them being yoked at the shoulders with a gathered piece below. The sleeves are sometimes puffed to the wrist, four small puffings being about the elbow, four small ones below, and one larger one at the elbow itself. Leg-of-mutton sleeves are very much used for lawn-tennis dresses, and also those sleeves with one long puff reaching from the shoulders to the elbow, the lower part being plain and tight, without any finish or cuff at the wrist.  With these sleeves the bodice is generally gathered into a belt, and the skirt is short, with one deep flounce round the bottom. This costume is really that worn in the years 1822-4, by our mothers and grandmothers.

The two costumes chosen as illustrations of seasonable dresses are both suitable for girlish wearers. The firs tis made of gold-coloured spotted satin cloth,  for the coat, scarf, and the trimmings of the black cashmere skirt. The small "toque" hat is intended to match the costume. The 2d dress is of bluish-grey stockingette cloth, the draperies, over-skirts, gathers in the front, and the bows all being of satin of a darker shade. The hat is of blue-grey straw, with poppies and satin bows. A piece of white lace is turned upwards from the brim. Both dresses are short, and of a useful walking style, and quite lady-like in appearance.

15 May 1880 - 'The Dress of the Month' by Dora de Blacquiere

 

The new dresses produced  for the warmer weather have already enabled us to see that the dark hues, hitherto supposed to be suitable alone to the winter months, are to be worn quite as much now. A very comfortable conclusion for many of y readers who have not quite worn out their winter dresses, and that thus can make them available to bridge over the gap between winter and summer.

A really good costume of any colour will clean and do-up like new, and is always worth sending to a dyer's. Black can be washed at home with ox-gall or fig-leaves, and pressed careful on the wrong side. Black cords of various kinds - such as the Russell and James - are excellent, both for washing and waring and are the same on both sides, so that they can be turned when slightly worn. They require no more care in washing than ordinary dresses; a tepid lather, one rinsing water, and one strong blue water being used. The dress should then be rolled up when partly dry, and should then ironed on the wrong side when damp.

I have been thus particular in my chat about old black dresses, as I know how fond everyone has been of wearing the this last three or four years; and I also know that a shabby, greasy, black dress is a great puzzle to most girls. An old black kid glove, boiled in a pint of water till reduced to half a pint, and then used to rub on an old black dress, using the liquor, will often be found a wonderful reviver It is a very usual recipe with the negresses in the Southern States of America, who are amongst the most clever managers in the world. Black dresses are quite as fashionable as they were this spring; and so, perhaps, our elderly dress, well cleaned or washed, and trimmed with bands of Indian broche, spotted black and white foulard, or a jetted galloon, will appear as good as a new one.

The new colours in dresses and bonnets are so much brighter than anything we have had of late that it takes some time to get reconciled to them. Old gold in all shades and materials is used for bonnets and hats more than ever; in fact, every description of yellow, cowslip, primrose, lemon, orange, and an odd yellow called yeux de chat, are all most fashionable. The number of new shades of pink is also great, rose, rose cendre, blush-pink and also "shrimp" will be worn for hats, bonnets and dresses. Every possible shade of lilac, the deepest royal-purple to the old shade worn by our granddames under the name of "peach-bloom"; grey-blues and blues are also much in favour.

Nothing can exceed the brightness of the sunshades and parasols. Red, red and black, red and yellow, in stripes, patterns, and dots, black and white ones embroidered with flowers in their natural hues, and old gold trimmed with black lace. Satteen and cotton parasols, trimmed with white embroidery and torchon lace, are made to wear with costumes of those materials, and the same as regards foulard. Some very stylish-looking parasols have been brought out, trimmed round and round with black or white lace, in rows one above the other to the top of the parasol. This would be an excellent method of doing up an old parasol, either light or dark in colour, and as plenty of cheap lace may be had it would be also very economical.

Some very pretty and inexpensive jerseys, made of bead netting, have been brought out, which form a complete evening costume over a black silk skirt. They are of black beads, as well as every other hue, and are got up in cheap imitation of the bead-embroidered cuirasses which have been worn in Paris so long. Stockingette, or jersey-cloth, is made into jackets, which are worn with hoods of the same lined with gay Indian handkerchiefs. This material has the advantage of sitting closely to the figure when made up into an out-of-door garment. These hoods are made to take off, and are only buttoned on the neck of the jacket, so that they need not be worn always. They also accompany ulsters and costumes made with a  waistcoat front, and will form one of the out-of-door garments of the summer season, as they are being made in black and white lace, to be used either with or without satin or cashmere mantles. Small capes will be used again this year; however, they are longer than they were the last, and come quite to the elbow, in order to give the tightened-in appearance which is so desired. Capes with long pointed fronts are also still used, and have hoods. Quantities of black lace are used to trim all mantles, jackets and capes; and camels'-hair and cashmere are the favourite materials for them. Youthful-looking scarf mantelets are made of the figured material of the dresses, and are trimmed with bands of the plain stuff, a collar of the same being used at the neck. Jackets similar to the dress are also used, but they are quite tight-fitting, and are figured - never plain.

A new idea in both short and long costume is the narrow kilting of bright colour which is added to the edge of the skirt, below the hem, or just below the lower flounce. On plain grey, drab, brown or black costumes this little addition is very effective, and gives a piquant effect to an otherwise plain dress. It will be pretty  for the short, black dresses of young people. The same hue should be used  for the bow in the hat.

One of the fabrics of this season will be the undyed silks of India and China These yellow Indian and Chinese "Pongees," and the Indian "Corah," were much worn at one time, but of late years have been neglected. The first-named wash beautifully, and wear for ever as every-day dresses; while the same may be said of the Corah, which is white, for evening wear. All of them are inexpensive, and last so long that they are an excellent investment for those of moderate means. The Tussore silk is put up in pieces of 9 1/2 yards, and ranges from 21s to 45s the piece.

I have given an illustration of a pretty handkerchief embroidered in colour, the pattern being simple and easily drawn. These little additions to the toilette are not difficult to work, and the satin and stem-stitch in which they are done are very speedy work in the hands of a good worker. The summer or spring waistcoat, next illustrated may be made of any washing or unwashable material. The pattern used for it might be that of an old, long basque, or even of a petticoat-bodice. The material might be of pique and nainsook for a summer waistcoat; thin muslin  for the evening, and silk or brocade for day wear. Waistcoats appear quite as much in vogue at present as they were last year.

The ruff, jabot and cuffs are made of sprigged muslin or yet, the method of putting together being clearly shown. They are intended for afternoon or evening wear, with a high bodice; and may be made in lace, if it be preferred or considered more dressy. Black and white lace, mixed gold outlined and coloured lace may all be used, or painted and embroidered lace. This high ruff is quite one of the great fashions of the day, and many ladies who desire to keep it stiff and high use a tiny invisible wire to keep it up round the neck. Of course the hair must be coiled higher on the head, and, for this new fashion combs are very much used.

The Corah is in lengths of seven yards, is thirty-four inches wide, and costs from 17s 6d to 25s the piece. Three pieces should be sufficient to make two dresses, and the cheapest plan is to purchase them in this way, with a friend, if there be not two sisters to share the material, as it is not sold by the yard. For best summer dresses for young girls this pretty cream-coloured India silk is most useful, and it can be done up and retrimmed over and over again.

 

The illustrations of the month give a walking dress with a long walking jacket and waistcoat, to which a hood may be added of the figured material. The hat or bonnet is also made of it; the edges of both must be bound with satin or velvet.

The other illustration shows a simple method of making a young girl's evening or home costume in a manner which partakes somewhat of our fashionable "high art" proclivities. The materials used may be cashmere, Corah silk, or any soft stuff which flows in harmonious lines, and the effect is at once graceful and youthful - two qualities which should be aspired to by all young girls.

24 April 1880 - 'The Dress of the Month' by Dora de Blaquiere

 

Great preparations are being made in view of a favourable season, and of a return to sunshine, summer, and all the pleasant things which are hoped for from the various prophecies of weatherwise and scientific people. There are, apparently, only a few changes in dress to speak of this spring, for short dresses, so much worn in the autumn and winter, are now quite the rule, even at very large evening parties. The changes in the mantles are also but few, and the same may be said of the bonnets, which are smaller than ever they were; while hats remain the same, and everyone wears what suits them best as to shape and size.

This lack of uniformity is exceedingly pleasant to everyone, especially to those who seek to make every shilling go its farthest, and every shilling's worth to look its very best, to the very end. It is a matter of no small wonder that girls who have but little to spend on their dress ever employ a dressmaker at all; for, instead of wasting money and time on fancy work for sale, they would save both by making their own dresses. The idea that lessons are needed in the art is quite an erroneous one, for if a girl be a good needlewoman to begin with, everything that is necessary can be learned from the dresses already made in the house. From an old bodice and skirt a well-fitting pattern might be procured, and if the old bodice lining be mounted on stiff brown paper, with some paste, the pattern will last for ever. It is, fortunately, much more the custom in England than it was to employ a dressmaker by the day at home, and if she be a clever woman much may be learned from her; but unless she can work a machine, or you can work it, with her preparation for sewing, it is not a cheap way of making dresses.

Last month we went carefully through the underclothing part of our wardrobes, and put everything in perfect order, so that this month we have time to think over and consider the new spring costume which we shall probably require, and the best material to purchase. If chosen aright, this costume should last us, and look pretty, throughout the summer and the early days of autumn. There is no prettier stuff than the ever-popular Beige, and fortunately this year it is produced in the most charming shades of colour. Over an old silk skirt it makes a very stylish, best-looking dress, and especially so when silk trimmings can be added to the bodice and sleeves. A very pretty way of making a Beige dress would be to kilt the short skirt entirely to the waist; have a scarf tunic edged with a band of silk folded round, and falling in a pointed end at one side. The bodice to be made with a gathered front and back, and the waist with a band. The sleeves with a puff at the top, and opened on the outside of the arm, with a lacing of cord, or buttons and button-holes. See also fig.1 for a pretty Spring dress.

The Jersey costumes will be much worn during the spring and summer. They can now be purchased at so moderate a price that any girl can have one if she fancy it; and as they are ready to wear, perhaps nothing more inexpensive could be obtained. Some of those with what is called a "cashmere finish" are very fine, and would answer for new bodices for elderly silk, or silk and cashmere skirts. There is no change in the method of making these, the kilted skirt and scarf over the end of the Jersey bodice being as much in favour as ever. The material for making these Jerseys may now be purchased in every dark and light colour, and ranges in price from 7s 6d to 10s per yard. It is used for shirts as well, and the new spring riding habits are made of it also. It is not suitable for deep mourning, and one of the leading London warehouses prefers not to make up Jerseys with crape at all.

Last month, the probability of the striped Galateas making their appearance again was mentioned and the last few days has brought some very pretty costumes of that material into notice, which are sold with enough sateen of the colour of the stripe to make them up. For instance, a dark brown and white striped Galatea will have a petticoat and trimmings of brown satin. There are also some revivals of the old-fashioned "polka" dots, which we have not seen for many years. The imitations of Indian shawls in palm-leaf patterns and colours have been introduced into prints, which are also used with plain materials. Later on we shall have brighter colours, such as the dull red of terra-cotta or the Kaga ware of Japan, peacock-blue, or the lovely old blue of Nankin porcelain. The first thing that the careful housewife will consider will be the washing of these prints, for although they may be dark, so to say, some day they will require washing, and great will be our disappointment to see that their lovely hues have taken wings and flown away out of the washtub.

So, in order to be beforehand, we will give instructions how this sad fate may be averted There is no doubt that great care is needed in the washing, and the colours must first be "set" as it is called. For blue, sugar of lead is used, alum for green, and salt for a varied combination of colours. The water should be tepid, not hot, and the wearers are advised to wash them before they be too much soiled .

Another novelty in these new prints is that they are manufactured without dressing or glaze, or any stiffening whatever, so the laundress must omit starch from her list of requisites, and must iron the dress on the wrong side to restore as nearly as possible to its original appearance.

It seems likely that the linen torchon lace will be a favourite trimming this year, as it is produced in such quantities, and it is very suitable for washing-dresses. It is so moderate in price, and so lasting in its wear, that it far surpasses Swiss or Madeira edgings in both of these qualifications, and has the advantage of being "real" lace. It is made on the pillow, chiefly in the common schools in Belgium, where instruction in its manufacture forms part of each child's education.

Black bugle trimmings will be one of the features of the spring costumes. Everything - bonnets, mantles, and dresses - are to glitter with the, and as they do not constitute a cheap form of decoration, we must remind our readers that lace, fringe, and silk galloons are very easily embroidered with beads, and that they may produce this effective trimming at very little cost - save of time and trouble - for themselves. Beaded lace is very pretty for making up the small fichus  for the neck which are so popular now, and a small addition of this kind makes any toilette both dressy and pretty.

There are so many people "doing up" old dresses just now that we must not forget to mention the "chine silks", foulards, velvets, and cottons which have just appeared in a variety of well-harmonised colours, and are most suitable for trimmings, and for reviving old materials by the addition of new collars, cuffs and revers. A good example of this is seen at fig.2, which might be an old dress revived. This favourite colour for the season seems to be that dull shade of violet-purple called heliotrope, after the dark shades of the flower of that name. The deepest of browns also called pain brule (burnt bread) is particularly preferred, and from all we hear these two, with old-gold, will be the prevailing hues of dresses  for the spring. The first is most becoming, and the two last are very useful, as the old-gold shades are said to wear well and keep very clean.

The illustration of a new method of putting on a flounce will also be welcomed by our readers as a pleasant change. There are two rows of kilting - the lower one being broad, and the upper one narrow. Then over the top of narrow kilting are placed tabs of the material, bound either with silk or the same stuff, and tacked on the top of the kilting. The edges are hidden by a flat hand, which may be stitched along the top with the machine, or run along on the wrong side, and turned up, and then stitched down. This trimming may be as wide or as narrow as required, and will answer for a petticoat or a dress,  for the cuffs of the sleeves, or  for the trimming of a mantle and, of course, may be made of two different materials, such as satin and cashmere, silk and cashmere, or velveteens.

The design given for a collar and cuffs shows how a plain linen set may be retrimmed and finished at home, with new points of linen, and a narrow edging of Madeira embroidery.

Fig.5 shows a linen collar and cuffs with lace edge, the tie of which is of Indian muslin.

The small illustration of a satin-stitch embroidery edging is intended for use on flannel or cashmere, for flannel petticoats, or jackets, or for bands of trimming on an under petticoat.

Jackets like the dress will, it is said, be worn, but the newest thing will be a deep cape to the waist, made so tight, that it quite holds in the elbows to the side. The pattern of a jacket that was given last month in the paper is extremely fashionable, with the addition of a small hood lined with a colour, at the back. The small round toque hats, made of the same material as the dress, are more worn than any other shape, by young girls.

27 March 1880 - 'The Dress of the Month' by Dora de Blaquiere

Although reckoned amongst the months of spring, March certainly seems to belong, by its low temperature, rightly to winter; the winds are cold and piercing, the rain is even more chilly than the wind, and the sky is usually dull; while clouds of dust add to the general discomfort. The warm winter garments cannot be discarded without great danger to health and life, and numberless are the accounts of dangerous illnesses which accrue from this cause alone.

But on its few bright days how shabby we all feel, both in our houses and our apparel; and how we long for something new and fresh in our surroundings. The custom of wearing new dresses and bonnets at Eastertide has very much passed into oblivion, but most of our mothers can remember that their mothers thought that to wear a white bonnet and veil on Easter Sunday was absolutely necessary. So our winter costumes and dresses may be worn throughout March, unless the season be much altered this year from its usual type, although this fact must not make us the less busy, for we have many preparations to commence, and many stitches to set in, if we be our own dressmakers and needlewomen, as I trust many of us are.

In the first place there are the underclothing and the stockings to be kept in constant repair. And those girls who have to make the most of a modest allowance will find that the simplest and most economical way of replacing under-linen will be to have always a new garment in hand to work upon in spare moments. Thus the expense of purchasing a large number is avoided, and the addition of the new garment at intervals keeps the stock in fair and presentable order. The calico should be, without dress, 36 inches in width, and of good quality, without uneven and large threads in it. An expenditure of from fivepence to sixpence a yard will ensure the acquisition of an excellent wearing quality. The amount required for a nightdress is four yards, for a chemise two yards and three quarters, for a pair of drawers two yards, while a yard is sufficient for a petticoat-bodice, and three yards of flannel for an ungored petticoat.

Scarlet has very much gone out of favour for flannel petticoats, as it is liable to be so spilt in the hands of an incompetent laundress, and I do not know anything so ugly as badly-washed red flannel, with large discoloured blotches in it, and the original colour changed to an unhealthy hue of repulsive-looking red. Pink, blue, violet and grey have been adopted in its stead, and the two latter are quite as pretty as the red when new, and wash and wear well. Of course, in the country, white can still be worn, but in our foggy London it has to be relinquished entirely.

The next thing, after the underclothes, which we should examine, is our stock of thinner dresses for the summer; for just at this moment there is plenty of time to make up our minds as to what we shall need, and to use our money when the spring goods come in to the best advantage. Last summer the cooler garments in our wardrobes had a rest, and perhaps will need but slight alterations. I hear that large quantities of our old friend, the "Galatea" stripes, and uni-coloured materials to wear with them as trimmings, are being prepared by the wholesale trade. This will be good news to many people, who had discovered the worth of this material, in its washing and waring, especially for children and younger girls. It required such plain making-up, too, and neither flounces nor kiltings looked well, only flat bands to match the predominating colour of the stripe. We are fortunate, too, in the fact that polonaises and princesse dresses are both as much worn as they were, though the drapery at the back must be a little modified and rearranged, and perhaps some fullness taken out.

Those of our readers who have patronised velveteen this winter will find that the skirts will be most useful this spring, and will be much used with over-dresses and polonaises of the new "all-wool homespuns" which are beautifully light in texture and moderate in price. I have inspected some manufacturers' patterns, which will be sold in the shops at about a shilling a yard. The colours most worn in them will be the various shades of "old gold", a very pretty and becoming colour for girls. Velveteen will both dye and clean well, and if it were good when purchased it will y and by appear in the spring costumes "quite as good as new".

White dresses of all materials will be very much in favour, and white serge is especially mentioned, as forming a charming spring costume. White cashmere is pretty, also a good white alpaca, both of which would answer for a best dress at any time.

The illustration below is a pretty evening dress, of a brocaded material of a grey colour. The trimmings are of grey or black linen-backed satin. Folds of satin are laid in front, and it has elbow-sleeves, with bows of satin at the sides. The necklace is of coral beads, and the hair is simply coiled and held up with a comb, the rose being worn or not, as required or liked. This dress is inexpensive, and might be made with long sleeves and closed at the neck if preferred. The jacket is intended to show - what has been several times inquired for by our correspondents - a simple method of trimming that can be accomplished at home. The material is a black cloth, with a basket pattern on the surface. The trimming consists of bands of black watered silk and velvet laid straight and flat all round; the edges have a thick cord laid on. Of course, these materials could be changed to suit the purse or the taste of each person. For instance, velveteen might be adopted instead, and edged with cord or bands of satin and plush. An old jacket cleansed and re-trimmed in this simple way would, I think, look very well.

There is little change in the fashion of dressing the hair, except that back-combs, so long banished, appear likely to come into favour again. They have ornamental tops, and the hair is, as I have observed, simply coiled, both back and front hair being placed together. Grecian fillets - two or three bands of ribbon of graduated lengths - are placed at equal distances, in the hair, or a wide band of coloured ribbon is tied in a bow at the top of the head. A few soft curls on the forehead in front can be suitably worn, but none of these ideas are very novel, although they are the most so of any that have yet appeared, and nothing really new seems likely to come in just yet.

Very pretty and jaunty little aprons are worn, which add exactly the needful touch of prettiness to a girl's costume, and brighten up the dullness of the winter dress. They may be made of mull-muslin and lace, like our example, Fig.1, and have a bright-coloured ribbon at the back; or they may be of the now fashionable pocket-handkerchiefs, which, although they are of such small price, composes the favourite apron of great people. The ordinary spotted cotton handkerchiefs are used, and three of them are required to make one apron. The first is used  for the middle, and has the top cut off it at the waist part, which (top) is used for a band. Number two is cut in two, one half being used for a bib, and the other is sewn along the lower edge of the middle one, making two borders at the bottom. The third handkerchief is cut diagonally from corner to corner, and the bias side sewn on to the sides of the middle already prepared. Then strings are sewn on to the points, which tie at the back, over the dress. The apron and bib are both simply gathered and sewn to the band above and below. I hope I have described this quaint-looking apron so that my readers may understand how it is made. The handkerchiefs can be purchased at as low a cost as threepence, and of course when this is the case this apron is a most economical investment. I must not forget to say that, if desired, it can be edged with the coarse Greek lace, now to be procured in every shop at a cheap rate. Aprons of linen and unbleached crash, embroidered in crewels, are likewise much worn; also some of dark blue French linen, which are particularly suitable for young girls, as they do not show either stain or soil, and, if decorated with pretty sprays of crewel work, are quite ornamental, as well as decidedly workmanlike and useful.

The most elegant of the new trimmings are those which go by the name of "cashmere", which does not convey any idea of what they are, as cashmere is a material, and in this sense it only appears to indicate a mixture of colour. Cashmere beads, for instance, which form the most charming decoration for a bonnet, are mixtures of red, green, gold and black beads. Cords and galloons are also made in the same way, but the beads are certainly the best decoration and trimming that I have seen for a long time. They may be worn with any colour, and look well with all.

Silk neckerchiefs are now quite revived, and very useful they are. They are large, square handkerchiefs, folded cornerwise, and tied round the neck open, without folding, and as loosely as possible. Bright colours are in favour, but especially those Indian and Persian-looking materials which can often be bought by the yard in sops where Indian fabrics are sold. Sometimes, too, people have stores of this kind lying by which they have never known how to use, but which, having been brought home as a remembrance by some dear soldier or sailor relative, they have carefully hoarded. Now is the time to make them of use and wear them as neckerchiefs, to the admiration of all beholders.

Fig.2 is one of the new large linen collars, and a cuff to match, which are much liked in the morning by some young ladies.

Fig.3 is a pretty evening fichu and cuffs, which I do not think my readers will have much difficulty in copying. It may be made in Swiss muslin, with Breton lace; or, if thin India silk be preferred, it would look equally well. This fiche would brighten up a dull day dress for evening wear.

Amber necklaces are now used by many young ladies, and it is quite a pleasure to see this dear old fashion again. I have always thought it a pity that this favourite of the earliest times had been so utterly discarded, and the pretty old necklaces of coral, cornelian and amber - some of which had passed through several generations - should have been laid aside. It is a simple and old-time ornament, more suitable to girls than any other they could wear. Very few ornaments there are which one would recommend to girls, for in truth they need none, while they have the fair beauty and the rounded outlines of youth.

7 February 1880 - 'The Dress of the Month'

The return to favour of velveteen has placed great possibilities in the hands of our girls of pretty and stylish dress, which, without being expensive, is rich-looking, very warm, and suitable  for the day time and the evening. The new velveteens of the season are distinguished for their improved texture and their excellent colour. In black they are especially good, and many experienced people fail to discover that the velvet dress, which they have so much admired and the purchase of which they perhaps called extravagant, was only a good velveteen after all.

The "Louis" velveteen, which is one of the best kinds, varies in price from 1s 6 1/2d, to 2s 11 1/2d per yard, but the prices between these are quite good enough; that at nearly 3s will probably be thought too expensive for ordinary use, though it should be remembered that velveteen cleans, dyes and wears out at least three ordinary dresses; so that the purchase of a good one is really an economy in the end. Velveteen is, of course, a "best dress"; that is to say, it is suitable for church, visits, afternoon teas, luncheons, and quiet dinners - in fact, for all the occasions when a young girl must look her best and brightest - the festal days and seasons of her life.

There are many methods of making it. In many cases it will be found useful to have two bodices made at first for the skirt - a plain long-basqued one for the day, and the other rather more trimmed, and with elbow sleeves, or cut square, for dress occasions. Now, that short dresses are worn in the evening by everyone, we can take advantage of the fashion, and save our material. As a rule, coloured velveteens are not very good, and, although they are more expensive at first to purchase, they are less to be relied on for lasting wear, and they grow so remarkable that all your friends recognise them, and know them far too well before they are worn out. Our illustration this month shows a charming costume of velveteen, mixed with a camel-hair cloth, a serge, a diagonal, or indeed with any one of that numerous array of materials brought out each season by the best Welsh manufactures and sent by them to any part of England or even the Continent.

The dress of the figure on the chair shown in the picture has a short all-round skirt of velveteen, with a flounce laid on underneath its edge, which is deeper in front than at the back. The over-dress is a short draped polonaise, of cloth, diagonal, or serge, which buttons at the back, and has velvet sleeves. For out-of-door wear there is a jacket of the material, without sleeves, with revers and collar of velvet. It is tight-fitting and double-breasted, and,  for the sake of warmth, should be lined either with flannel, or wadded, and lined with alpaca. The hat or bonnet is of felt, of the colour of the dress, the feather being laid round it in cavalier fashion.

Of course this description may be much modified in every way, but, as represented, it is a costume of very moderate price. The cost would be increased by making it entirely of velveteen, but it would become at the same time more dressy. Plain velveteen would require a trimming, and black brocade is preferable to either fur or jet trimmings; fur bands being more used and more suitable to cloth and serge costumes. The brocade is not expensive, although it sounds so; I have seen it as low as 3s per yard at about 23 inches wide. This short polonaise above described may be worn over any kind of skirt this winter, for we have again returned to that useful and delightful fashion of wearing a different skirt with any bodice we may have.

For this costume, those girls who are not fortune enough to have furs may make muffs and capes to match for themselves. These are now quite as stylish and newer when made of velvet, satin or plush. The cape is quite a plain round one, in shape like the fur and cloth coachmen's capes which we have worn so long. It is generally wadded and lined, but this must be done most carefully, so as to avoid making it at all bunchy. It may be plainly corded with satin to match the colour, or have the edges turned up and the lining hemmed down over it. Of course the stitches must not be taken through to the right side. A small round collar may be placed at the neck. The muff is gathered in puffs underneath, on the wrong side; three gatherings inclusive of those at the edges being enough. The lining should be of silk, and those who have never before attempted to make one should study a fur one, and the method in which it is put together. The amount of silk and velvet needed is very small - half a yard of each being enough for those long skating muffs, which reach up at the wrists, like cuffs, and are larger in the centre, and is far too much  for the tiny muffs in vogue. The muff only requires an edging of black lace, if that be available, or else a yard of corded ribbon which is put through it, and tied in a large bow and ends up on the top.

The Pompadour velveteens, as they are called, have dark blue, green or brown grounds, covered with floral patterns, such as little roses, little forget-me-nots, or the smallest of pinks, in their natural colours, with sprays of green foliage. In short, they are the same things in velveteen that were worn as chintzes last summer. The same idea has been carried out in flannels, and both are charmingly pretty, either for small children, or their older sisters. One thing must, however, be remembered about them, and that is that they are cheap, and represent at best an ephemeral fashion, so that next winter our best dress of this year would look particular, and be easily marked as a fashion of last year. This is, as I have said before, very undesirable, and must always be avoided by every girl who wishes to dress unobtrusively, as well as prettily. So these new introductions will be more wisely used as trimmings for last year's dresses, and in that capacity they will be most useful. They will make pretty new cuffs, bands for trimmings, and plastrons  for the front, and, as everybody's dresses always show wear first at the sleeves and in the front, their adaptation in this way will make an elegant and fashionable costume.

A very pretty new style of under-skirt has just been brought out, made of dark flannel  or serge, trimmed with fine kiltings of the same, while on the kiltings and above them in plain bands is sewn some of the dark imitation Indian cashmeres, or "Paisley shawlings" as they are sometimes called. This makes a dark, yet bright skirt, and it may easily be manufactured at home with the aid of the sewing machine.

Even though writing in February, it is useless to think of warmer days, with all the experience of the past before us, and March is certainly a more bitter month as regards winds than the present; so I have kept the winter steadily in view, in addition to which, nearly everything about which I write is so novel at present that, even next winter, it will not be demodee, or passee. The casaquin, or long cuirass bodice, of Paisley or Indian imitation material, is rather more spring-like perhaps. As illustrated in the other figure in our picture, it appears as a house costume, but in Paris last autumn it was constantly used in walking, and made in exactly the same shape as represented.  The same material is used for a gathered plastron down the front of the skirt, but this is not needful, as any skirt can be worn with it, short or long, so that it accords in its hue with the general colour of the casaquin. In the evening it is very popular, but then it is made of a rich and expensive Indian stuff, generally interwoven with gold thread, through its patterns of palm-leaves or scroll-work. But the imitation Paisleys are to be obtained at prices ranging from 2s to 4s per yard, and these are quite good enough, I think. It will easily be seen how an old black cashmere or silk skirt can be turned into a fashionable costume, with the addition of a novel casaquin bodice, such as the illustration represents. The other day I saw a small toque hat worn with one, edged with a gathered band of velvet, and the loose crown of it was made of the material of the casaquin. The whole costume was so pretty and simple that it is worth describing. The skirt was a kilted brown cashmere, with a brown velvet scarf; the casaquin was of a reddish brown, the pattern through it being "old gold" and the hat, as I Have said combined the two, and so did the small muff.

There is nothing that the home dressmaker has more trouble in doing than in trimming the sleeves when made. It is difficult to avoid giving a kind of home-made look in finishing them, which always ruins the effect. In reality, there is no great secret in the art, and any trouble arises from want of common care and neatness, and the lack of sufficient turnings, which soon causes the home-made trimmings to look untidy and even ugly. The two which are have illustrated are of the latest fashion and are both so simple that a little attention will enable anyone to comprehend them.

Fig.1 is a plain bias piece of the figured material, over which is laid, as a revers, a bias piece of the plain stuff, turning it towards the hand. On it is placed as a trimming a flat gallon or braid. The three straps at the other side are also of the plain stuff, and should be cut out and lined with tarlatan, or lining muslin, to hold them firmly. They should be all made before being sewn on.

Fig.2 is also cut on the bias, and is put on round the wrist. The plain part is confined to the top half of the sleeve, the wide part being joined into the seam of the sleeve when it is sewn up.

The small Henri III ruff, as it is called in Paris, is most fashionably worn at present, and is within the power of every girl to make for herself. It consists of two lengths of lace, gathered separately, and arranged in shell-shaped patterns on a band of muslin. The front is finished by a rose and ends of ribbon, which may be of pale blue, or of black velvet if the rose be a pink one. Six yards of lace will be sufficient if it be desired to have the ruffle very full, and the lace should be purchased of a sufficiently good quality to be washed and done up several times.

Fig.4 is an example of one of the new bows, which are called after Louis XIV. They are a very considerable size, some of them large enough to cover the front of the dress. The lace used is the kilted Breton, which can be procured of all widths ready kilted. The lace is sewn upon muslin, which can then be placed as shown in the sketch; a small, square, double foundation being first made by which to pin it to the dress. The ribbon is of some pretty colour to match, or contrast, with the rest of the dress.