28 August 1880 - 'The Dress of the Month' by Dora de Blaquiere

The June roses have fled, the heat of July and August is over, and before us spreads the cool September, from whence we shall gradually slide into the chilliness of October almost without recognising the change of seasons. In our dress, however, we are obliged to make some alteration, and for this, of all months, it is perhaps the most difficult to dress. The summer garments are a little too cool; the autumn ones not yet thought of, much less purchased. In this dilemma there is always black to fall back upon; black, in which everyone looks well, and in which no one can err on the side of over-dressing. It has been more valuable than ever to us since the introduction of the coloured kiltings, or balayeuses, enabled us to give a touch of colour, in a natural way, to the blackness of the costume. Nothing was ever more easy to make than they are, or more inexpensive to purchase. Turkey-red twill is quite good enough for a girl's use, and the kilting of the two-inch-wide frill can be done at any shop in town where the kilting machine is kept, for about a half-penny a yard. The kilting may be of any and every colour, but red and old-gold are the most popular; and the possessor of two or three sets of different colours need not be considered very extravagant.

The colour of the balayeuse must be repeated on the bonnet or hat, which, if red, may be effected by a red poppy or red satin bow at the throat as well. Small artificial sunflowers are now made, to be worn at the side of the neck, ensconced in the black lace necktie, quite a bunch being used. Indeed, these flora ornaments are quite a feature in everyone's dress, and I must confess that I like them, for what could be more suitable than flowers to the young? The floral bonnets have always been peculiarly pretty, and I shall never forget the pretty effect of a small bonnet of blue forget-me-nots which was worn by the fair-haired daughter of a noble family when they first came out, and the extreme suitability of the style to her modest and flower-like face.

In the evening young girls may wear the new floral collar, which is a ruffle of leafless flowers, tied round the throat, and having a few tendrils of hanging buds and leaves. Buttercups on black, scarlet pimpernel on pale blue, or violet would make pretty necklaces. Two of the most fashionable collars of the day - both to be worn with the lace frill - are illustrated on this page, the first being made of coloured-crossway-cut silk or India muslin, gathered at the back and on the shoulders, and extending scarf-like down the front, the edges being trimmed with lace, and a tiny flower bouquet making a finish at the neck.

Fig.2 is a linen collar, rounded at the corners, edged with lace, and tied with a coloured cord and tassel at the neck. Then there are the bows  for the neck, of lace and muslin, which form a finish to any dress. Little floral trinkets are much worn by young ladies, sprays of forget-me-nots and lilies of the valley being particularly popular.

I daresay that most of my readers have seen the small head-nets made of gold or silver thread. They are very easily manufactured for oneself, with a rather coarse steel crochet-hook. The pattern may be taken from any antimacassar wheel, or even a square which has a rounded centre, both of them being very open. The edges are finished with pearl beads, or else with tiny gold sequins, which can be purchased by the dozen at any fancy shop. These gold squares form a pretty finish to the hair-dressing of a young lady or to the top of a cap for her mamma. The border of the cap may be a wreath of some small buds and leaves, mounted on a wire, and the net laid lightly over them. "Mamma's caps" are a subject of great interest to so many girls, that I give them this hint in passing.

At Fig.3 an easy method of trimming-up an elbow sleeve, to be worn in the evening, is shown.

The newest lawn-tennis aprons are made of ecru silk sheeting, edged with red of the same material, as a border, on which is embroidered a wreath of flowers, the pockets and the bib are also red. Many young ladies are making themselves caps for tennis in the shape of the well-known Neapolitan fisherman's, which resembles a pointed jelly-bag more than anything else. It is finished by a tassel at the end, and may be of a dark red, or else may match the costume in colour. Many people crochet them in ordinary double crochet, but nearly any material answers for them, such as cashmere or sateen, as the cap can be made to fit the head by means of a wide elastic band run into it. Talking of aprons reminds me that I have seen some very pretty and useful ones made of the ordinary glass cloths, with their red and blue cross-bars, the border for them being made of crewel, or ingrain cotton, stars or sprays, embroidered in the squares of the border. These aprons, being of linen, are, of course, perfect as to their washing capabilities. The bibs of aprons are now gathered into the neck and waist-bands, and handkerchief aprons are more diversified than ever. The last one I saw was very simple, and consisted almost entirely of one large handkerchief, hemmed with a small gathering made to mark the waist-line, about five inches from one of the points. This turned that point into a bib, the gathered part being the waist, the two points on either side being tied back by ribbon strings. A square pocket of plain sateen was placed in the centre.

Everyone is still wearing the jaunty "creole turbans," or "toques"; they are so comfortable, so pretty, and so easily made at home to match any dress. The cost of them is a mere trifle. A net foundation, price sixpence; a quarter of a yard of velvet, 1s 6d, or less; and the top is found at home in the material of the dress, or else in one of the pretty Indian-looking materials to be found in every shop.

And now I must have a little chat about colours. Black and white, of course, are once more in fashion, especially in spots and stripes; and they will remain so during the autumn. Old-gold or buff and dark brown are frequently mixed in hats and bonnets, particularly for young people. Crimson and mauve, deep pink and violet, scarlet and deep plum colour, pale blue and violet, crimson and dark blue, purple and old gold, are all contrasts or harmonies of colour, allowable both in the dress and on the hat. All these facts are useful in guiding us in our way to making up either new or old dresses. Also that cotton and silk are now worn together, and linen and silk also. Cashmere is constantly made up with foulard and sateen, while serge may also be mixed with both. I have lately seen several old silks - especially black ones - "done up" most cleverly with spotted sateens, and made to look almost better than new. The same may be said of the deep red Turkey twill, which has been utilised for gathered fronts, sleeve gatherings, and the balayeuse kiltings; and there is no doubt but that clever people, having old dresses of any kind to "do up," are now revelling in the delights of an almost endless choice of material.

The dress illustration of the month gives a useful afternoon toilette - blue foulard, having spots of various colours. Under-skirt is of silk or cashmere and trimmings of foulard. The flounce is pleated and headed with flat loops of satin arranged in rows. The bodice trimmed with folds of foulard, and a plastron of satin. A satin scarf is folded round the basque, and is trimmed with two rows of loops; the folds are finished at the back by bows of satin. Another bow is placed at the side of the collar. The sleeves are finished with cross folds of satin.

26 June 1880 - 'The Dress of the Month' by Dora de Blaquiere

The change in the dress of the month are exhibited mainly in small things, not large ones. For instance, we are leaving off the many-buttoned gloves and taking to some without any buttons at all, which are called the "sack" gloves. They are made with a gore, and may be obtained both in kid and in silk, and are unquestionably a great improvement on the many buttons, which were most tiresome to wear. Black gloves are no longer the rule for day and evening dress, although they are still worn by the careful and economical, and will not go out of date yet it is to be hoped for their sakes. All kinds of coloured ones are seen - drab, lemon, pink, brown, coffee, and the new shades of heliotrope and petunia are both introduced, as no other shade can be selected to look well with either of them. Yellow gloves are worn if the bonnet be trimmed with yellow roses or ecru feathers. Gloves are more used than mittens in the evening for all occasions, except for children, who invariably wear the latter. Stockings for both children and grown people are worn self-coloured, with embroidered clocks, and sometimes with small embroidered sprays in front.

Although there is much more drapery and the plain effect, so long aimed at, at the back of the bodice is no longer in vogue, there is no appearance of crinoline; the skirts, being made as narrow as ever, and in no case, when short, do they measure more than two yards round. The polonaise seems to have given way to the bodice and trimmed skirt, and now that three materials are often seen in the same costume, there is no excuse for not utilising old dresses. Velvet, cashmere, and foulard, or silk, are amongst the most favourite mixtures, and the skirt may be made of a plain and uncoloured material, while the bodice and sleeves are of a figured stuff. Velvet and velveteen have by no means taken their departure with the cold weather, both being used as skirt trimmings, laid on in flat bands, wide or narrow as preferred. Deep kiltings  for the skirt are as fashionable as ever, and the only change in the scarf is to drape the square ends at the side instead of the back.

Serge dresses are always pretty and useful, and were never so stylish as now, when one of the best London tailors has introduced the fashion of trimming serge with the spotted foulards. A short blue serge dress which was much admired the other day was made with a  deeply kilted skirt and a jersey, and had a scarf of blue foulard spotted with white dots draped round the hips. The hood to wear with it was lined with the same, and the small toque hat was edged with a brim of gathered velvet, and had a top of spotted foulard. Our two sketches of the month's fashions give an idea of the style of costumes now used by young girls, and both may be copied without difficulty, and at a small cost.

Entire costumes of these spotted materials are to be seen, and never was there so great a choice of pretty and cheap costumes for girls as now, when the prints, cretonnes, and sateens are manufactured in such good taste, and charming Eastern-looking hues, not too dark to be dingy, and yet dark enough to wear for a long time without getting soiled. These summer dresses are all trimmed with cheap lace, which has a light and graceful effect. Perhaps none of the readers of this paper have any idea of the virtues of a hot iron in freshening up a summer costume; but so excellent is its effect that every girl who wishes to look fresh in her toilette and have a dainty appearance should learn to use an iron, and make herself independent of anyone's help. The wrong side of the dress should be ironed, not the right; and when much tumbled, the natural freshness may be restored by placing a damp cloth underneath the iron, and pressing out the creases in that way.

Some very simple but pretty little summer bonnets and hats have just come out, and may be made by girls for themselves on any shape the most individually becoming to each. They are made by completely covering the shape with narrow black lace, slightly gathered, and sewn on in rows round and round, one above the other. The edge is bound with velvet, and a wreath of flowers may be worn round the crown.

Sateen, in pretty delicate colours, is now much used  for the evening costumes of young girls, and is also employed for crewel-embroidered dresses for evening wear more than cashmere. The "lights" on these are put in with silks; some favourite designs are wallflowers on ducks'-egg-blue, sateen, pansies on old gold, or dog roses on cream-colour The embroidery for these dresses is lightly done, the stems being traced, and also the leaves, while the flowers are executed with as little work as possible. The crewels and silks used should be "set" before working with them to avoid disappointment.

The dressing jacket, fig.1 in the illustration, is a useful and necessary addition which every girl ought to make to her wardrobe, and is much less cumbersome than the old-fashioned dressing gown, while it performs the same office of keeping the hair from soiling the dress and underclothes It may be made of print without any trimming, of nainsook, cambric pique, or in fine calico The half dozen tucks on either side may be run by the machine, and the gathered puffings are crossed at intervals by bands of embroidery, to match that with which it is edged. The materials may be as cheap as can be provided, as the prettiness of the garment consists in the manufacture and its exquisite neatness. These little jackets are found most useful in sickness, as they can be put on in a moment and completely hide the tumbled night-dress, and make the patient neat and tidy with very little trouble to herself or to her nurse.

The petticoat at fig.2 shows the present method of making all under-skirts with a deep yoke and little fullness. The drawing strings may be used or not as required. Black petticoats will be very fashionable this summer, and hardly any white will be seen - in fact, with short dresses great economy may be practised, and no white skirts whatever worn. Now that they have been obliged to dismiss the muff, the Parisian ladies have restored the aumoniere or alms-bag pouch to favour, for the purpose of holding the handkerchief. It is made of black velvet and hangs at the side, but it may also be made of the same material as the dress. It is reported, too, that little bags, hung upon the arm, such as were worn by our grandmothers, are coming in again. They are made of satin, to match the colour of the toilette. The corners have small tassels, and there are also tassels to finish the cord with which the bag hangs to the arm, and on one side the initials or monogram of the owner are embroidered.

For out-of-door wear the neck is still swathed in a black lace scarf, worn as high as possible; while a nosegay is placed at the right side to match that on the hat or bonnet.

24 April 1880 - 'The Dress of the Month' by Dora de Blaquiere

 

Great preparations are being made in view of a favourable season, and of a return to sunshine, summer, and all the pleasant things which are hoped for from the various prophecies of weatherwise and scientific people. There are, apparently, only a few changes in dress to speak of this spring, for short dresses, so much worn in the autumn and winter, are now quite the rule, even at very large evening parties. The changes in the mantles are also but few, and the same may be said of the bonnets, which are smaller than ever they were; while hats remain the same, and everyone wears what suits them best as to shape and size.

This lack of uniformity is exceedingly pleasant to everyone, especially to those who seek to make every shilling go its farthest, and every shilling's worth to look its very best, to the very end. It is a matter of no small wonder that girls who have but little to spend on their dress ever employ a dressmaker at all; for, instead of wasting money and time on fancy work for sale, they would save both by making their own dresses. The idea that lessons are needed in the art is quite an erroneous one, for if a girl be a good needlewoman to begin with, everything that is necessary can be learned from the dresses already made in the house. From an old bodice and skirt a well-fitting pattern might be procured, and if the old bodice lining be mounted on stiff brown paper, with some paste, the pattern will last for ever. It is, fortunately, much more the custom in England than it was to employ a dressmaker by the day at home, and if she be a clever woman much may be learned from her; but unless she can work a machine, or you can work it, with her preparation for sewing, it is not a cheap way of making dresses.

Last month we went carefully through the underclothing part of our wardrobes, and put everything in perfect order, so that this month we have time to think over and consider the new spring costume which we shall probably require, and the best material to purchase. If chosen aright, this costume should last us, and look pretty, throughout the summer and the early days of autumn. There is no prettier stuff than the ever-popular Beige, and fortunately this year it is produced in the most charming shades of colour. Over an old silk skirt it makes a very stylish, best-looking dress, and especially so when silk trimmings can be added to the bodice and sleeves. A very pretty way of making a Beige dress would be to kilt the short skirt entirely to the waist; have a scarf tunic edged with a band of silk folded round, and falling in a pointed end at one side. The bodice to be made with a gathered front and back, and the waist with a band. The sleeves with a puff at the top, and opened on the outside of the arm, with a lacing of cord, or buttons and button-holes. See also fig.1 for a pretty Spring dress.

The Jersey costumes will be much worn during the spring and summer. They can now be purchased at so moderate a price that any girl can have one if she fancy it; and as they are ready to wear, perhaps nothing more inexpensive could be obtained. Some of those with what is called a "cashmere finish" are very fine, and would answer for new bodices for elderly silk, or silk and cashmere skirts. There is no change in the method of making these, the kilted skirt and scarf over the end of the Jersey bodice being as much in favour as ever. The material for making these Jerseys may now be purchased in every dark and light colour, and ranges in price from 7s 6d to 10s per yard. It is used for shirts as well, and the new spring riding habits are made of it also. It is not suitable for deep mourning, and one of the leading London warehouses prefers not to make up Jerseys with crape at all.

Last month, the probability of the striped Galateas making their appearance again was mentioned and the last few days has brought some very pretty costumes of that material into notice, which are sold with enough sateen of the colour of the stripe to make them up. For instance, a dark brown and white striped Galatea will have a petticoat and trimmings of brown satin. There are also some revivals of the old-fashioned "polka" dots, which we have not seen for many years. The imitations of Indian shawls in palm-leaf patterns and colours have been introduced into prints, which are also used with plain materials. Later on we shall have brighter colours, such as the dull red of terra-cotta or the Kaga ware of Japan, peacock-blue, or the lovely old blue of Nankin porcelain. The first thing that the careful housewife will consider will be the washing of these prints, for although they may be dark, so to say, some day they will require washing, and great will be our disappointment to see that their lovely hues have taken wings and flown away out of the washtub.

So, in order to be beforehand, we will give instructions how this sad fate may be averted There is no doubt that great care is needed in the washing, and the colours must first be "set" as it is called. For blue, sugar of lead is used, alum for green, and salt for a varied combination of colours. The water should be tepid, not hot, and the wearers are advised to wash them before they be too much soiled .

Another novelty in these new prints is that they are manufactured without dressing or glaze, or any stiffening whatever, so the laundress must omit starch from her list of requisites, and must iron the dress on the wrong side to restore as nearly as possible to its original appearance.

It seems likely that the linen torchon lace will be a favourite trimming this year, as it is produced in such quantities, and it is very suitable for washing-dresses. It is so moderate in price, and so lasting in its wear, that it far surpasses Swiss or Madeira edgings in both of these qualifications, and has the advantage of being "real" lace. It is made on the pillow, chiefly in the common schools in Belgium, where instruction in its manufacture forms part of each child's education.

Black bugle trimmings will be one of the features of the spring costumes. Everything - bonnets, mantles, and dresses - are to glitter with the, and as they do not constitute a cheap form of decoration, we must remind our readers that lace, fringe, and silk galloons are very easily embroidered with beads, and that they may produce this effective trimming at very little cost - save of time and trouble - for themselves. Beaded lace is very pretty for making up the small fichus  for the neck which are so popular now, and a small addition of this kind makes any toilette both dressy and pretty.

There are so many people "doing up" old dresses just now that we must not forget to mention the "chine silks", foulards, velvets, and cottons which have just appeared in a variety of well-harmonised colours, and are most suitable for trimmings, and for reviving old materials by the addition of new collars, cuffs and revers. A good example of this is seen at fig.2, which might be an old dress revived. This favourite colour for the season seems to be that dull shade of violet-purple called heliotrope, after the dark shades of the flower of that name. The deepest of browns also called pain brule (burnt bread) is particularly preferred, and from all we hear these two, with old-gold, will be the prevailing hues of dresses  for the spring. The first is most becoming, and the two last are very useful, as the old-gold shades are said to wear well and keep very clean.

The illustration of a new method of putting on a flounce will also be welcomed by our readers as a pleasant change. There are two rows of kilting - the lower one being broad, and the upper one narrow. Then over the top of narrow kilting are placed tabs of the material, bound either with silk or the same stuff, and tacked on the top of the kilting. The edges are hidden by a flat hand, which may be stitched along the top with the machine, or run along on the wrong side, and turned up, and then stitched down. This trimming may be as wide or as narrow as required, and will answer for a petticoat or a dress,  for the cuffs of the sleeves, or  for the trimming of a mantle and, of course, may be made of two different materials, such as satin and cashmere, silk and cashmere, or velveteens.

The design given for a collar and cuffs shows how a plain linen set may be retrimmed and finished at home, with new points of linen, and a narrow edging of Madeira embroidery.

Fig.5 shows a linen collar and cuffs with lace edge, the tie of which is of Indian muslin.

The small illustration of a satin-stitch embroidery edging is intended for use on flannel or cashmere, for flannel petticoats, or jackets, or for bands of trimming on an under petticoat.

Jackets like the dress will, it is said, be worn, but the newest thing will be a deep cape to the waist, made so tight, that it quite holds in the elbows to the side. The pattern of a jacket that was given last month in the paper is extremely fashionable, with the addition of a small hood lined with a colour, at the back. The small round toque hats, made of the same material as the dress, are more worn than any other shape, by young girls.

27 March 1880 - 'The Dress of the Month' by Dora de Blaquiere

Although reckoned amongst the months of spring, March certainly seems to belong, by its low temperature, rightly to winter; the winds are cold and piercing, the rain is even more chilly than the wind, and the sky is usually dull; while clouds of dust add to the general discomfort. The warm winter garments cannot be discarded without great danger to health and life, and numberless are the accounts of dangerous illnesses which accrue from this cause alone.

But on its few bright days how shabby we all feel, both in our houses and our apparel; and how we long for something new and fresh in our surroundings. The custom of wearing new dresses and bonnets at Eastertide has very much passed into oblivion, but most of our mothers can remember that their mothers thought that to wear a white bonnet and veil on Easter Sunday was absolutely necessary. So our winter costumes and dresses may be worn throughout March, unless the season be much altered this year from its usual type, although this fact must not make us the less busy, for we have many preparations to commence, and many stitches to set in, if we be our own dressmakers and needlewomen, as I trust many of us are.

In the first place there are the underclothing and the stockings to be kept in constant repair. And those girls who have to make the most of a modest allowance will find that the simplest and most economical way of replacing under-linen will be to have always a new garment in hand to work upon in spare moments. Thus the expense of purchasing a large number is avoided, and the addition of the new garment at intervals keeps the stock in fair and presentable order. The calico should be, without dress, 36 inches in width, and of good quality, without uneven and large threads in it. An expenditure of from fivepence to sixpence a yard will ensure the acquisition of an excellent wearing quality. The amount required for a nightdress is four yards, for a chemise two yards and three quarters, for a pair of drawers two yards, while a yard is sufficient for a petticoat-bodice, and three yards of flannel for an ungored petticoat.

Scarlet has very much gone out of favour for flannel petticoats, as it is liable to be so spilt in the hands of an incompetent laundress, and I do not know anything so ugly as badly-washed red flannel, with large discoloured blotches in it, and the original colour changed to an unhealthy hue of repulsive-looking red. Pink, blue, violet and grey have been adopted in its stead, and the two latter are quite as pretty as the red when new, and wash and wear well. Of course, in the country, white can still be worn, but in our foggy London it has to be relinquished entirely.

The next thing, after the underclothes, which we should examine, is our stock of thinner dresses for the summer; for just at this moment there is plenty of time to make up our minds as to what we shall need, and to use our money when the spring goods come in to the best advantage. Last summer the cooler garments in our wardrobes had a rest, and perhaps will need but slight alterations. I hear that large quantities of our old friend, the "Galatea" stripes, and uni-coloured materials to wear with them as trimmings, are being prepared by the wholesale trade. This will be good news to many people, who had discovered the worth of this material, in its washing and waring, especially for children and younger girls. It required such plain making-up, too, and neither flounces nor kiltings looked well, only flat bands to match the predominating colour of the stripe. We are fortunate, too, in the fact that polonaises and princesse dresses are both as much worn as they were, though the drapery at the back must be a little modified and rearranged, and perhaps some fullness taken out.

Those of our readers who have patronised velveteen this winter will find that the skirts will be most useful this spring, and will be much used with over-dresses and polonaises of the new "all-wool homespuns" which are beautifully light in texture and moderate in price. I have inspected some manufacturers' patterns, which will be sold in the shops at about a shilling a yard. The colours most worn in them will be the various shades of "old gold", a very pretty and becoming colour for girls. Velveteen will both dye and clean well, and if it were good when purchased it will y and by appear in the spring costumes "quite as good as new".

White dresses of all materials will be very much in favour, and white serge is especially mentioned, as forming a charming spring costume. White cashmere is pretty, also a good white alpaca, both of which would answer for a best dress at any time.

The illustration below is a pretty evening dress, of a brocaded material of a grey colour. The trimmings are of grey or black linen-backed satin. Folds of satin are laid in front, and it has elbow-sleeves, with bows of satin at the sides. The necklace is of coral beads, and the hair is simply coiled and held up with a comb, the rose being worn or not, as required or liked. This dress is inexpensive, and might be made with long sleeves and closed at the neck if preferred. The jacket is intended to show - what has been several times inquired for by our correspondents - a simple method of trimming that can be accomplished at home. The material is a black cloth, with a basket pattern on the surface. The trimming consists of bands of black watered silk and velvet laid straight and flat all round; the edges have a thick cord laid on. Of course, these materials could be changed to suit the purse or the taste of each person. For instance, velveteen might be adopted instead, and edged with cord or bands of satin and plush. An old jacket cleansed and re-trimmed in this simple way would, I think, look very well.

There is little change in the fashion of dressing the hair, except that back-combs, so long banished, appear likely to come into favour again. They have ornamental tops, and the hair is, as I have observed, simply coiled, both back and front hair being placed together. Grecian fillets - two or three bands of ribbon of graduated lengths - are placed at equal distances, in the hair, or a wide band of coloured ribbon is tied in a bow at the top of the head. A few soft curls on the forehead in front can be suitably worn, but none of these ideas are very novel, although they are the most so of any that have yet appeared, and nothing really new seems likely to come in just yet.

Very pretty and jaunty little aprons are worn, which add exactly the needful touch of prettiness to a girl's costume, and brighten up the dullness of the winter dress. They may be made of mull-muslin and lace, like our example, Fig.1, and have a bright-coloured ribbon at the back; or they may be of the now fashionable pocket-handkerchiefs, which, although they are of such small price, composes the favourite apron of great people. The ordinary spotted cotton handkerchiefs are used, and three of them are required to make one apron. The first is used  for the middle, and has the top cut off it at the waist part, which (top) is used for a band. Number two is cut in two, one half being used for a bib, and the other is sewn along the lower edge of the middle one, making two borders at the bottom. The third handkerchief is cut diagonally from corner to corner, and the bias side sewn on to the sides of the middle already prepared. Then strings are sewn on to the points, which tie at the back, over the dress. The apron and bib are both simply gathered and sewn to the band above and below. I hope I have described this quaint-looking apron so that my readers may understand how it is made. The handkerchiefs can be purchased at as low a cost as threepence, and of course when this is the case this apron is a most economical investment. I must not forget to say that, if desired, it can be edged with the coarse Greek lace, now to be procured in every shop at a cheap rate. Aprons of linen and unbleached crash, embroidered in crewels, are likewise much worn; also some of dark blue French linen, which are particularly suitable for young girls, as they do not show either stain or soil, and, if decorated with pretty sprays of crewel work, are quite ornamental, as well as decidedly workmanlike and useful.

The most elegant of the new trimmings are those which go by the name of "cashmere", which does not convey any idea of what they are, as cashmere is a material, and in this sense it only appears to indicate a mixture of colour. Cashmere beads, for instance, which form the most charming decoration for a bonnet, are mixtures of red, green, gold and black beads. Cords and galloons are also made in the same way, but the beads are certainly the best decoration and trimming that I have seen for a long time. They may be worn with any colour, and look well with all.

Silk neckerchiefs are now quite revived, and very useful they are. They are large, square handkerchiefs, folded cornerwise, and tied round the neck open, without folding, and as loosely as possible. Bright colours are in favour, but especially those Indian and Persian-looking materials which can often be bought by the yard in sops where Indian fabrics are sold. Sometimes, too, people have stores of this kind lying by which they have never known how to use, but which, having been brought home as a remembrance by some dear soldier or sailor relative, they have carefully hoarded. Now is the time to make them of use and wear them as neckerchiefs, to the admiration of all beholders.

Fig.2 is one of the new large linen collars, and a cuff to match, which are much liked in the morning by some young ladies.

Fig.3 is a pretty evening fichu and cuffs, which I do not think my readers will have much difficulty in copying. It may be made in Swiss muslin, with Breton lace; or, if thin India silk be preferred, it would look equally well. This fiche would brighten up a dull day dress for evening wear.

Amber necklaces are now used by many young ladies, and it is quite a pleasure to see this dear old fashion again. I have always thought it a pity that this favourite of the earliest times had been so utterly discarded, and the pretty old necklaces of coral, cornelian and amber - some of which had passed through several generations - should have been laid aside. It is a simple and old-time ornament, more suitable to girls than any other they could wear. Very few ornaments there are which one would recommend to girls, for in truth they need none, while they have the fair beauty and the rounded outlines of youth.