22 January 1881 - 'Seasonable Dress and How to Make It

Our patriotic feelings are naturally interested in the home-use of our own English manufactures, so we shall no doubt feel interested in knowing that the present taste for plush is a encouragement to English trade, as the plushes used are, to a great extent, of purely British manufacture. They are very beautiful both in colour and texture, and a plush bodice forms a most elegant and useful addition to the wardrobe of every girl, and is not too expensive to use to make an old dress look like a stylish new one. Plus is also a very excellent material to use to lengthen an old silk bodice which has become too short  for the present fashion, and it will quite metamorphose an old walking jacket if cleverly used. Plush collars and cuffs are put on dresses of another colour, and need not be used anywhere else on the dress. They are also used with out-of-door jackets and ulsters. They take about half a yard of plush; the collar is of a true sailor shape, square at the back, and rounded at the corners in front, where it fastens under a bow of plush or lace and ribbon. Black velvet sailor collars, cuffs, and pocket flaps are also worn on dresses of every kind of woollen texture and hue, and sometimes, instead of the collar, a long hood lined with a bright silk is added to the indoor bodice.

Black is not nearly so generally worn by day as it has been  for the last five years, colours being far more generally chosen than they were; and red, such as claret, wine, and plum colour, being in high favour, quite as much as they were last year. Satin is the favourite trimming with cashmere and serge, and also broche materials, but not plush, velvet or velveteen. Jackets and coat bodices are the most worn of any description of corsages for the daytime, but for evening dress the long pointed bodice is worn, both for young and old. Belted bodices have not become popular, and even with gathered dresses are not at all used. The new jerseys are very lady-like and pretty, and as they are now made there is nothing objectionable in them; they fasten down the front with a row of small cloth buttons very closely set, and large square collars and deep cavalier cuffs of plush are added; or else a hooded cape which matches the jersey in colour, or else it is of a distinct colour and matches the balayeuse, which now forms a part of every short dress.

A jacket intended for out-of-door wear, with the collar and cuffs and pockets in plush or velvet with embroidery on the edges, is illustrated at fig.1. This jacket will be most useful and popular  for the spring and will show our readers that the new ideas of the spring though a little different, have no very decided change in them.

The pretty bonnet illustrated at fig.2 is made of black straw and the new ribbed plush; it is as simple and unpretentious as possible, and could be easily accomplished by any girl. The plush on the bonnet is in the two full rouleaux, the front is lined with velvet and the strings are of ribbed plush or of ribbed plush ribbon. The shape is the close princesse, which may be purchased at any price, from one shilling to three and sixpence, according to the quality and fineness of the straw.

The large illustration represents a girls' skating party, and we hope that by this time the weather has proved favourable to this eminently healthy and delightful exercise, and that numbers of our girls will have learned to skate gracefully and well, not only the ordinary straightforward skating, but the Dutch roll, in outside and inside edge, and any forms of figure-skating that they can manage to acquire under tuition of father or brother.

Except from suffering and death it entails on the poor, by reason of our badly-built houses and inefficient powers of heating them, we might wish for a longer continuance of this pastime, but under those circumstances we cannot selfishly desire what occasions pain and sorrow to others.

Beginning from the left-hand side with the first figure, we find she wears a girlish-looking cloak and bonnet, which ware known by the name of the "Mother Hubbard" this winter. The cloak is made of either cloth or cashmere, and is lined with fur, or a quilted alpaca lining  for the winter, if the latter be used. The muff is of the material, trimmed with velvet or plush bands. Many Mother Hubbard cloaks are made of cloth, and the gathered portions round the neck and wrists are of satin or velvet. This is a very pretty addition to the cloak, and does not increase the expense of the cloth materially, because it does not require lining like the thinner cashmere. The bonnet is of plush and satin, to match the muff; it has a gathered crown, and at one side a tiny bouquet of velvet leaves and berries. The dress worn beneath is of sapphire-blue cashmere, trimmed with satin bands.

The second figure to the left wears a plaid dress made with a kilted flounce, and a long plainly-cut cloth jacket, double-breasted in front, with two rows of buttons and bands of narrow fur to edge the neck and the sleeves. The cap matches the cloak and is called the "Russian General's"; the crown is of cloth, and the band or border of fur.

The third and most distant figure wears an ulster with three small capes, and a cloth hat to match her ulster, the gossamer veil being tied beneath the chin.

The fourth and centre figure wears an ordinary walking dress of black cashmere, with two flounces, each with a gathered bouillone top. The scarf tunic is closely pleated across the front. The cloth jacket is prettily braided and edged with fur; it has a hood at the back. The hat is called the "boat shape", is made of rough beaver, and trimmed with velvet.

The fifth figure wears an extremely warm cloth cloak, trimmed with fur, and a fur muff; while her hat is a large one, slightly turned up at one side, lined with black velvet, and trimmed with a feather.

The little woman who stands in such an observant attitude at the back and looks on is attired in a plaid frock, edged with black fur, and a crochet Tam o' Shanter cap. Apropos of the latter articles, for which there has been such a rage during the last few months, they seem now to have been passed over entirely to the children, and both boys and little girls wear them alike. They make a very pretty and cheap headdress, and any mother or sister can make them for herself, and I really do not consider that any pattern is needed, as the increasing  for the crown are very easily managed, and must be just sufficient to make it lie flat. Fingering yarn and a coarse crochet-needle are all the implements needed, and a friend of mine informs me that her boys' caps cost her exactly sixpence each.

I must not forget to mention that self-coloured stuffs are more popular than figured ones, and that where the handkerchiefs are used for dresses the foundation consists of a plain, thick woollen material, such as diagonal cloth, Cheviot, or Indian cashmere.

25 December 1880 - 'Seasonable Clothing and How to Make It'

There is no use in concealing from ourselves that multitudes of our girls marry, and that afterwards they take THE GIRL'S OWN PAPER just as regularly as before, and find all the information they need in it, with as much ease as their younger sisters. We know this from the questions  we receive and answer on many matronly subjects, and so we think we must help our girl brides to purchase the best wedding dress possible, one that will last a long time and that can be dyed if need be. Fortunately this winter very excellent material, Irish poplin, is much used for brides' dresses, the kind selected being that with very thick cord or double repped. The trimming used is plush, but very little is required for such a handsome thick fabric as Irish poplin. Bridesmaids, too, are fortunate as to the winter change in their dresses, which now have plain plush petticoats and full bodices of one of the moderately-priced Indian silks, t match the plush in colour, only paler. This dress will not be an extravagant one, as it will, if suitably made, answer for a best dress for a long time. The large hats and the mob caps have all grown old-fashioned for bridesmaids, and they have been quite supplants by the hat-caps, as they may be called, the "Tam o' Shanter," the "Henry VIII," and the "Leonardo da Vinci," all of which are made of plush, matching the colour of the dress.

It is delightful to hear that the over-frizzed heads are to disappear from amongst us and are no longer to be considered fashionable. We are to return to the prettily weaved bandeaux, with the centre parting clear and well defined. The knot behind remains the same, but short curls fall from it, in a graceful Greek fashion, such as we may see represented on classic busts.

The woollen stockings worn this winter must match the dress in colour, and some charming new merino ones have been introduced, which are nearly as finely woven as spun silk and are quite as soft. They are not ribbed, and so are more suitable to tender feet than if they were,  for the latter cling too tightly to be otherwise than irritating to sensitive skins. I trust that all the readers of THE GIRL'S OWN PAPER wear woollen stockings, and stout shoes or boots, with wide low heels and road toes, so as to be perfectly comfortable when they walk. I heard of a young lady the other day, who wore the fashionably-pointed toes and high narrow heels, who had had a succession of violent nervous headaches, which ended in floods of tears and hysterics. Her doctor, on being consulted, said that the boots she was wearing were the cause of her troubles, and he had had several similar cases; whereupon the sufferer ingenuously confessed that she was sure the doctor's opinion was correct, for she had indeed gone through agonies of distress every day that she had worn her fashionable boots.

White kid gloves are worn again at night, as well as lavender-coloured, and pink and black are worn as much as ever by day, a very good thing for those who are obliged to save their money, and consequently their gloves. On first putting on a pair of black kid gloves it is a good plan to rub them all over with some salad oil, pomade, or even butter, by means of a little piece of flannel, until they look lustrous and blacker than ever. Of course no grease is left on them that might rub off upon anything. after this preparation they will be found to wear much better and be softer and more flexible. Some gloves for evening wear are ornamented with beads at the back in a simple, conventional spray or scroll pattern. Any of our readers who are in mourning might do this little bit of extra decoration for themselves.

The favourite gloves of all are the almond and tan-coloured gants de Suede, and they appear to be worn both by night and by day equally well. They are, of course, less expensive than the real kid, but that they do not wear nearly as well nor keep clean as long, so are not to be recommended to careful girls.

The new bodice shape has as few seams as possible, and only one side piece, the joining of which is carried quite to the back of the arm, so as to have a plain piece under it. Three sizes of buttons may be worn on basque bodices, the largest being of the size of a penny piece, on the pockets. The next size is on the front, and the smallest, which are as big as a fourpenny piece, on the cuffs. The use of gathering (or gauging, as it is properly called) is much on the increase for the shoulders and fronts of dresses, muffs, millinery and sleeves, so that the readers of THE GIRL'S OWN PAPER should learn to do it for themselves, for it is one of the lost arts in ordinary needlework, though still used for surplices and the "smock frocks" of wagoners and the peasantry. The following is the description given in a very old needlework book: - "Take up the stitches at regular intervals of half an inch each  for the first row;  for the second, continue doing the same, letting the needle, however, take up the intermediate parts. The third row is like the first, and so on. For the purpose of securing the gathers firmly work them as follows, with very strong netting silk. Take on your needle the first two gathers, and the thread on which they run, pulling your thread firmly through.  For the next stitch again take two gathers and the thread upon your needle, letting the first of them be the last gather that was taken up at the former stitch, so that the work proceeds by one gather at a time. Observe to draw the netting-silk as tightly as possible, so as to make the stitches lie very closely together, in a slanting position."

Walking-dresses are still made with deep kiltings, but the plaits are very wide, which takes away much of their stiffness of appearance. A lightly arranged and bouffant scarf finishes the skirt below the basque bodice. I have no doubt that many girls will be glad to purchase and wear the very moderately-priced woollen Jerseys, of which there are so many in the shops this winter. They form a very pretty and easily-obtained bodice, and their plain appearance may be taken off by placing a plastron of plush or gathered ilk in a V shape in the front. A large velvet collar, something like a sailor's collar in form, much improves them, and cuffs to correspond are worn at the wrists. Jerseys are not now covered at their termination below the waist with the scarf, but are either left plainly hemmed in their original style or else they have a deep fringe generally of jet beads, which can be made by any one with clever fingers.

Our large illustration gives two costumes - an outdoor and a handsome indoor gown. Both show exactly the present fashions. The cloak worn is of a simple cloth dolman shape, trimmed with black fox fur, both warmly lined and wadded. The dress of the other figure shows the profuse use of gauging in dresses. There is one great comfort in this style of making, that old dresses can be turned to use admirably in trimming each other, provided they be not faded. No amount of wear (we were told the other day) seems to matter, as the close gathers hide it all; so, if it be a trouble to do, you may have this consolation. Cheaper material can also be bought for trimmings, for a very poor silk is good enough to use in this way.

27 November 1880 - 'Seasonable Clothing, and How to Make It'

Our bonnets and hats are usually a question of very deep consideration to all of us, and it is most natural they should be so; when we consider for a moment how really important they are as being the frames and shelters to our faces, and adding to or detracting from the pleasantness of our looks. A cheap bonnet or hat is hardly to be had unless we are fortunate enough to make them ourselves, when, I am sure, we have all been surprised at the great show which can be made at very little cost. This has been my own case this very season, when I have made two lovely creations (as the French milliners would call them), starting with one elderly bonnet, which, purchased in May, had lasted through the season. It was a very pretty and good black-jetted one, trimmed handsomely with jet, but it had quite done its duty and seen its best days. However, there was a new bonnet to be made from it, I was sure, and some little assistance toward another, perhaps, and my expenditure over both must be limited if other parts of the wardrobe were to be supplied as well.

Now my rule is to make such purchases invariably at a large shop - never where there is only a limited stock - as I am then sure of cheaper and better materials, and much newer and fresher things. On this occasion I followed my usual rule, and here is my bill in extenso -

1 black straw bonnet - 1s 1/2d
1 shape bonnet - 6 3/4d
1/2 yard black velvet, at 2s 11 1/2d per yard - 1s 5 3/4d
4 yard black ribbon, at 1s 1/2d a yard - 4s 1d
1 flower and leaves - 2s 6d
11s 1 1/2d

The black straw bonnet was one of coarse straw in the princess shape, small and closely fitting. A rummage in my bag of odds and ends soon found me enough black silk to line it with, and then it was bound all round back and front with a gathered bias of black velvet, which was slightly full, and was about half an inch on the edge of the bonnet. Above this all round were sewn on my strings of beads, which were as big as peas, and were kept on the thread on which they were strung, which was caught down at intervals with a stitch or two. On the front of the bonnet I placed one of the long knots or bows now so much worn cut from my half-yard of velvet, which I forgot to say was bought on the bias. This bow was about three inches wide, and was "slip stitched" round to prevent the stitches showing on the right side. A narrow band of velvet crossed the back above the beads. Then the strings were sewn on, and my little bonnet had reached completion.

I then turned to my old bonnet, which I carefully unpicked and brushed with a bonnet brush, before reconstructing it. After this I covered the coronet front of the new shape with some new black velvet, and bound the back with the same, first transferring the silk lining, which was quite clean and nice. Then the crown was covered with the embroidered bugle covering of the other bonnet, and the velvet coronet was quite covered with the deep-jetted fringe, which was sufficient to go all round to the back also. Lastly, my pretty old gold flowers were put deftly on the top of the front, the strings sewn on, and my second bonnet was done, the expense of both bonnets being 11s 1 1/2d - 5s 6 3/4d each. One, of course, was entirely new, but did not cost any more than the other with the flower and new strings. Now this little account has been given with a view of showing what can be done, either for ourselves or for others, if we choose to take the trouble of thinking about the matter.

I have always been thankful for my knowledge of millinery and dressmaking, which I derived from my nurse, who had been apprenticed to a milliner and dressmaker. Under her instructions I dressed and redressed my dolls, who went to endless entertainments, and altered and re-arranged their clothes with a boundless extravagance, which would have brought their male relations to the verge of bankruptcy if they had been anything but dolls. I do not remember either to have had any new things for my dolls in those happy busy days; nothing but a big band-box full of scraps of every kind, to which everyone seemed to contribute bits of lace, ribbon, and silk, besides anything and everything which could be turned to account for a doll or a doll's house. For my dolls lived in a big cupboard for a house, every room of which had been furnished by nurse and myself with wonderful home-made contrivances, much of which knowledge I have made use of in after life. But I fear very few girls have nurses like mine, and they must acquire their knowledge later in life, even if they are lucky enough to acquire it at all.

But to return to our "Seasonable Clothing." Now that we have disposed of our bonnets  for the moment, I am very anxious to help those amongst our girls who have just begun to have allowances, and do not yet know how to use them to the best advantage. There is no doubt that without a fixed plan we shall waste our money, and we must begin by making a fixed rule that we will try to buy everything we want at once, and not be always buying, or else we shall never get anything really good. There are a few rules which I think may be useful, and the first thing is to have as few dresses as possible, and nothing but what is good. One winter and one summer dress are quite sufficient to add to your stock yearly. Two bonnets and two hats are also enough; two pairs of shoes, and two pairs of boots. Four pairs of gloves will be found sufficient, if you buy only the very best, as 3s 9d, or 4s, and having worn a pair three months for best, take them for second best, and get a new pair to replace them as best. You should always manage to have two pairs of boots in wear at once, and two pairs of shoes, and never wear your best boots in wet weather. Stockings are another thing it is foolish to be saving in, as nothing really good in woollen can be obtained under 3s 6d or 4s. Three pairs are enough, and if of the best will wear for three winters. As occasion offers, take out the worst from your stock and replace them with new ones.  For the summer you will require six pairs at least; and if you darn and wear them carefully they will last three summers also, observing the same rule of replacing them.

All underclothing is kept in good order by the same rule, and every girl should always have some articles in hand, and endeavour to keep her stock of chemises and drawers up to six, while three or four night-dresses are quite enough. Flannels, too, are treated by the same rule, adding one at intervals (generally every autumn) to the stock, and using the thin petticoats in the summer. Summer petticoats are a very small item in the expenses, as they can be purchased by the yard as low as 10d and ready made for 3s, and they do not last beyond the season. Winter ones are rather more; I think that black moreen, or that satin-faced woollen material used to line gentleman's coats, are the best to use, but they may frequently be made from old black dresses. Black silk dresses are most economical wear, and, as a rule, one every four years is quite enough to keep anyone in best dresses. A few yards of new brocade, satin, or velvet will make a half-worn dress look like a new one. French merino and cashmere are also materials that will wash and wear to the last thread.

For those who require them I give two flannel (figs.1 and 2) dressing-gowns, which will be most useful to invalids. About eight yards will be required for each, and the trimmings may be of old black silk or cashmere for either, with a little cheap lace or work to enliven them, which can be taken off and washed.

Fig.3 is a flannel dressing-jacket, trimmed with flannel embroidery bands, or with torchon lace, and rows of herring-bone embroidery done with coarse purse silk.

The large illustration gives an idea of the winter fashions. A small coat-like jacket is in much favour, which reminds one of what is known, I believe, as a gentleman's "Newmarket" coat. The cheapness of Ulsters is quite astonishing in London this winter; I have seen them well made and of wonderfully good material for 12s 6d, and very excellent ones of a better class at 19s 6d.

30 October 1880 - 'Seasonable Clothing and How to Make It'

It is a matter of no little comfort to all of us this season that the changeable laws which govern dress are so lenient as to permit an unlimited diversity in style and shape, and also in material, as many as four different stuffs being used in the same dress. The most popular colour is brown, which lends itself happily to all kinds of economical contrivances, and is, besides, a delightful colour, in its capacity for being enlivened by brighter hues, as well as by cream-colour, and brownish yellows. It is also a little gayer than black, although quite as serviceable, and equally neat and pretty.

Dresses are made with polonaises, quite as much as with jacket-bodices or basques. The new polonaises are long, and fasten either behind or in front; there is usually a gathering, about a quarter of a yard in length, immediately in front, which draws up the front of the polonaise into graceful folds, and the opening is finished by a looped bow with many ends. There are frequently gatherings at the middle of the waist behind and in front, extending down for some distance on the skirt; but unless the material be soft ad limp, it is never used for gathering, as thick material would never fold into the extremely close gathers now in vogue.

The coat bodice is similar to that which has been worn all the summer, which was illustrated in September at page 617, Vol.I, with a cutaway front. In our illustrations of this month (fig.1) the newest shape is given which has a double breasted front, and is more of a winter costume than the other.

In the picture at fig.2, an indoor costume is shown which is one of the novelties of the season.

And now I have described the prettiest style of dress  for the autumn and winter, we will have a little practical chat concerning our own wardrobes. It is more than probable that we have, some of us, a black cashmere, silk, or velveteen half worn-out, and not good enough for our winter dress; we should be so thankful if we could see in it the foundations of our new costume, but we do not quite know how to set about it.

If we like to take advantage of the fancy of the day, we may fearlessly mix them together, when, however bad, we shall be sure to have a presentable dress out of all three. With the present trimmed skirts such as figs.1 and 2, the foundations may be of any other material, - such as a stout alpaca - as they do not show when trimmed, and it makes a great saving in a dress; or any old skirt which is good, and not too limp, may be utilised for the purpose.

Velveteen is immensely popular this winter; the new makes are so vastly superior to the old, that they are hardly distinguishable from real velvet. A very pretty costume could be made of seal, brown velveteen, and light brownish yellow Indian cashmere, or vigogne, of the shade known as tete de faisan, which is very like the colour called cuir some years ago. The velveteen skirt would have a silk or alpaca foundation, and two kilted flounces, each about a quarter of a yard in depth. The upper dress may be of the vigogne, or cashmere, or else of estamene, or diagonal serge, and may be either a polonaise or else a jacket bodice in which case the upper skirt must be put on the top of the flounces as a trimming. A princesse dress, made short, of grenat velveteen, would also be a pretty winter dress. It might have a pinafore polonaise of some light material for wear in the evening, which would make it additionally useful. The cream-coloured, figured, Madras muslin - for instance, is very cheap, and being wide, a pinafore could be made at very little cost. If this dress be intended for a best costume, it might be well to go to the expense of procuring a little plush  for the trimming; but in using it, it should always be borne in mind that it wears badly.

In cutting out velveteen at home, it is needful to remember that there is a right and a wrong way of the material, and all the parts must be cut the same way. You must also take the fact into consideration that velveteen, if good, is always worth redipping, and that if there be too little of the good portion of a dress to make up again, it is still worth re-dying; as the well-preserved parts may be utilised with new material. I consider velveteen is entitled to a very high rank amongst the economical materials, and from its cheapness and good appearance should find a place in the wardrobe of all young people. Another nice textile is "vigogne," which is rather more expensive, but it is worth all it costs. It is very soft, and delightful to the touch, and the best material for trimming it is satin; and I know I need not press the advantages of the linen-backed satins on my readers; I must only caution them not to purchase any cheap ones, as they do not answer this purpose. To give from 3s to 4s a yard will ensure an excellent wearing quality. They are quite invaluable for doing-up old dresses, and they can be purchased in nearly every hue of the rainbow, and even the cheaper kinds, when cleverly used, look as good as satin at night.

Serge dresses are now trimmed with narrow braids; for blue serge, both black and gold braids are used, the rows being placed close together, to the number of four or five. Satin stitch embroidery with gold-coloured silk is a novelty on some of the new serge dresses, and also Roman striped scarves used as bordering bands and kiltings. Woollen plaid handkerchief dresses have succeeded the linen and cotton ones of the summer, the handkerchiefs being sold separately, in any number desired. They are of every colour, in fancy plaids, not Scotch tartans, and they are used to make whole dresses or only as trimmings. There are also numbers of fancy plaids of quiet colours, which would be very useful in re-making last winter's linsey, serge, or tweed dresses, and would make them look new and pretty again, used as scarf tunics, kiltings, gathered plastrons on the bodices, or puffs on the sleeves.

I think that I have quite exhausted the subject of dresses and dress materials, and may now proceed to mantles and jackets. The former are exceedingly large, and of the dolman shape, some with and others without sleeves, the most expensive ones being lined with plush and coloured satin, and even with velvet.

The well-known tight jackets of last season are worn this year again; the lining of the hoods is of some quiet plaid silk, the small "toque hat" being made to match of the same material. Those amongst my readers who have last year's mantles and jackets, therefore, may take heart over them, as they will be quite in the prevailing fashion this year. With regard to new ones, the newly introduced "sealskin cloth" appears to be a valuable material, moderate in price, and, so far as I can judge, everlasting in wear. I should not advise, however, that anyone should attempt to make them at home, as it is extremely difficult to make the seams join well, even professional hands finding a difficulty in making them as invisible as they should be.

The coachman's capes in fur will be worn again this year, but a more favourite method of wearing furs will be a wide-standing collar, or a large round collar attached to the mantle itself. The large fur-lined cashmere round cloaks will also be used this year, as they seem to be found too useful to relinquish, and for wearing in the winter evenings they are certainly a delightful protection from the cold.

The bonnets are very small, and the hats are very large indeed. There will be no difficulty in making our own bonnets at home,  for the shapes are all to be found in straw, and of nearly every colour. The only trimming in many cases consists of a very large long bow of silk, plush, satin, or black velvet, at the top of the bonnet, no cap or flowers inside, and no other trimming besides the strings, which are generally of the same material as the bow. An example of one of these small bonnets made of black straw, with a violet velvet bow, Parma violet wreath, and silk strings, is given at fig.3.

Stockings are still worn of a plain colour to match the dress, or else black, which is as fashionable and as serviceable as ever for morning and evening wear. Gloves are also worn to match the dress in colour; and as the generality of sleeves are short, the gloves with four buttons are the most generally adopted. Black lace scarves, wound round and round the neck, are used instead of collars, and black lace frills instead of white,  for the wrists of dresses. All these are most economical styles, and are invaluable to girls having but small allowances.

The last three illustrations are intended to help the industrious worker at home.

Fig.4 shows an easy method of trimming with two materials, which will be found available for doing-up old dresses. 

Fig.5 represents another bonnet, which will not be found difficult to copy.  

Fig.6 suggests a method of making-up an evening fichu on a wide ribbon, with lace and a suitable bouquet. 

10 January 1880 - 'Winter Clothes and How to Make Them' by Dora de Blaquiere

This is the first of Dora de Blaquiere's pieces for the G.O.P. Whilst the paper certainly had some purely aspirational content, especially to do with fashion and dress, its principal demographic was middle-class girls who were expected to shift for themselves to a certain extent, and make themselves useful. The rich girls might be able to purchase all their garments from the finest dress-makers and shops, or only approach DIY dressmaking as a hobby, but here's to everyone else, making do. 

I like to see everyone looking nice, especially girls, and am of opinion that no small part of their future happiness depends upon their complete understanding of the whole "Art of Dress". The subject is indeed a wide one, from the choice of the materials to the right methods of cutting out and making them up for use. Economy, wearing-qualities, colour, suitability, and last, but not least, that which we have only lately begun to study, the hygienic principles of dress - should all form part of the education which fits a young girl for her battle with life.

This winter Dame Fashion favours those who have to make the best of half-worn garments,  for the jackets, mantles, and paletots worn differ but little from those that were fashionable last season, and the universal adoption of short walking-dresses is an admirable assistance in renovating and remodelling old ones. But I must begin, I think with the

HAT OR BONNET,

And here we are fortunate to the,  for the "poke" bonnet - the favourite shape of the last spring and summer - will be quite fashionable this winter, and those amongst "our girls" who had them in black straw can use them, re-trimmed, throughout the next season. They are now most generally lined with a coloured satin, and are trimmed on the outside with black velvet, or satin, or else with a scarf of coloured Indian-looking material, in various rich hues. Half a yard of this is enough to drape round the bonnet in folds, with a small tie. Strings need not be added, as they are more worn by elderly ladies than girls. Even, if the "poke" bonnet be white, it is not necessary to despair, as it will dye very nicely. The only difference in the shape this winter is that the front is wider and more flaring. The handkerchief-crowned hats, with gathered velvet rims, are still worn very much, and they are exceedingly pretty when made of the same stuff as the dress. Almost any girl could manage to make one of them if she purchased the foundation, which only costs 6d. The first thing to do is to bind the rim with velvet cut on the bias, slightly gathering it at each edge. This velvet may be had cut from the piece on the bias, and I think half a yard should be found enough, cut into two lengths and joined. The lining of the hat is put in next, and for this, if great economy be desired, old silk will answer as well as new. Lastly, the head-covering should be put on, and this should be cut into an oval shape and larger than necessary. The gathered or puckered effect of the top is easily produced by taking a few irregular stitches on the wrong side, and drawing them lightly together. A little observation will enable a girl to make a very pretty hat out of cheap materials, if she have the determination to succeed.

I have commenced with the hat, as a principal part of the winter cloths, because it is sometimes one of the young girl's greatest difficulties, but it is one which may be surmounted, just at present, with more ease than usual, as the fashions worn are simple and easily understood. The out-of-door garment is much more troublesome, and I think that a wise and prudent maiden will first try her "'prentice hand" upon the alteration or turning of an old

JACKET OR MANTLE.

By this simple means she will learn the proper method of making-up cloth. She will find the seams, after being sewn, were flattened with a hot iron on the wrong side, and afterwards laid over with a narrow galloon hemmed down on either side. The edges are also generally finished with this narrow galloon, which is the best and neatest method of treating all seams that are intended to be durable. Black linen-thread should be used for sewing all thick and dark materials - not cotton, which cuts and wears rusty. For stitching seams, which are intended to be seen, and also for button-holes, tailor's silk twist must be procured. This is sold by the yard, in all colours, as well as black. Buttonholes are a sad trouble to most amateur workpeople; but I hope that my readers have already passed through a complete course of careful instruction, and that as regards these tailor's buttonholes, experience will soon teach them the right method of making them strongly. They are cut in the shape of an elongated  . ^ , the wide end at the outside edge, to allow of its lying flat when buttoned, and to give room  for the shank of a large button. The quantity needed to make an ordinary jacket of tweed, for a girl of fifteen, would be one yard and a quarter, three yards of serge or linsey, and a little more of diagonal or coarse frieze.

PAPER PATTERNS.

One of the things which must be learnt by all girls who desire to be comfortably dressed on small allowances, is cutting-out and this seems to me not nearly so difficult a matter as people are inclined to make out. A few experiments should be first tried with newspapers, in the following manner. Take three or four sheets of it and paste the ends together in a long length of several yards, the whole length to be, say, 24 inches wide. Then lay your paper patterns down on this, remembering that all backs, fronts, sleeves and skirts run up and down the selvage, and that any deviation from this settled rule will spoil your dress or jacket. The right and wrong side of the stuff must also be remembered, as well as the pattern, and if it runs up or down.

It would be difficult to mention a single article of dress of which a paper pattern may not be procured in the present day, at prices which vary from sixpence to a shilling. I remember a little girl of my acquaintance, some years ago, being fired with the ambition of making a dress for herself. She bought out of her own pocket-money, 8 or 9 yards of print for 4s., and after arduous study of her own dresses, she managed one day to produce, to her mother's astonishment, a dress for herself, which could only be regarded as wonderful for a maiden of 13! She had received no help from anyone over it, and the cutting-out and making had been entirely her own work. I am inclined to think that many girls might be induced to attempt dressmaking for themselves if some small prize were held out, by either father or mother, as a reward.

THE DRESS.

The three materials most suitable  for the ordinary every day dress of a girl are tweed, serge and French merino. The latter, which has just returned to fashion, is more suitable for best dresses, perhaps; but it is, without exception, one of the most durable and charming of materials, and bears hard usage, washing, dyeing, and turning, as long as it can hold together. Tweed has the great drawback of being frequently mixed with cotton; but when quite pure, all wool, and not too fine in texture, it is also interminable in its wear. Serge is open to the same objection and, in addition, is sometimes so badly dyed that the hands are embued with a blue hue as long as the dress lasts. It is also liable to fade, and wears white; and when torn it makes such an ugly jagged hole, which the wearer will find most difficult to darn. It should always be bought at a good shop, and, if possible, the cheaper kinds should be avoided, as unsuitable to those who have little money to spend, and must have that money's worth. The large loose-grained serges are said to be the best, and the prices range from one shilling to five or six per yard. From five to seven yards, fifty-four inches in width are needed for a skirt-bodice and jacket. The most suitable trimming is flat mohair braid of good quality, and wooden buttons. The skirt is generally made with a keep-kilted flounce, which is unlined, the kiltings being kept in place by two tapes, to which each kilt is sewn in their due order. The bodice is shaped with a plain long basque, and to hide the meeting of the skirt and bodice a folded scarf is tied round the hips. The out-of-door jacket to this serge suit, if nicely made, and well cut, should answer for other dresses, and any extra warmth can be added by putting a small knitted woollen waistcoat underneath.

CAPES

The present mode of wearing coachmen's capes is a very pretty and a very economical one, especially to young girls, as they can manage with a lighter and, perhaps, an older jacket  for the winter, when they have secured the additional warmth of the pretty and becoming fur cape. They are not expensive either, and are quite within the reach of a small allowance. The best to choose are, I think, those of black fox, though, of course, the coney skins are the cheapest. The drawback to the latter is that they will not bear wetting, and that the hairs are very easily plucked off in tufts, leaving an ugly bare place.

SHOES AND STOCKINGS

It is a peculiarly good thing for those who must think of how to spend their money to the best advantage, that nearly every fashion of this year tends to assist the thrifty. Shoes, for example, which are so much worn, are far cheaper than boots; and a good strong and nice-looking pair can be purchased for five or six shillings, where equally good boots would have cost ten. Black stockings, too, are both becoming and economical, and the pretty deep-red ones are very much affected by young girls, who, with a morsel of red in the hat, thus contrive to lighten an entirely black costume. It is singular how opinions change. A few years ago it was considered quite an unheard-of thing for a young girl to wear a black dress or bonnet.

And now, having disposed of the hat, bonnet, jacket, dress and shoes, for walking purposes, we must return to the indoor raiment. And here it is that I must especially charge my readers to endeavour to be neatly and prettily dressed - tidy hair, shining from the constant care bestowed on it, clean cuffs and collars, and, above all, neat shoes and stockings, are none of them too expensive luxuries for girls to aspire to possess. But perhaps even as you read these words there may be some shabby old dress which seems hopelessly "done for" staring you in the face. Even of this you need not despair, with the present pretty fashion of aprons and pinafores to help you hide all defects. Your own fancy may also be called into play to invent something which shall be inexpensive, and yet pretty and quite original. I saw such an elegant pinafore-apron the other day, made by a young girl to hide her old winter dress. The material was a cheap sateen, of a dark pink shade, decorated with little flowers, and trimmed all round the edge with a cheap embroidery. The bill was triumphantly produced for my inspection, and amounted to two shillings and tenpence halfpenny! The cheap cottons, with blue or pink stripes, are very pretty for the making of these winter pinafores; or, if these should be thought too cold, or their washing too expensive, there are so many pretty flowered Pompadour-like materials, that no difficulty will be found in selecting something pretty and inexpensive.

And now I am going to conclude my chat on Winter Clothes with a few explanations, and a little advice about purchases, and the cutting-out of

MATERIALS.

It may be thought that I have suggested a very short list of materials from which to select a winter dress. To tell the truth, the essential part of economical dressing, both for young and old, is to choose good all-wool, and quite unremarkable materials, avoiding mixed fabrics of wool and silk, or wool and cotton. So with this view I have left out all such combinations from the list for your choice. Everything pronounce in style, or at all peculiar in shape, must be avoided, and for two reasons - that it shows the date of its purchase, and the true lady should be neither dowdy, nor antiquated. All peculiarities of dress are sure to be commented upon, and however good-natured our friends may be, we should endeavour in this way to avoid giving them subjects for either, that no difficulty will be found in selecting something pretty and inexpensive.

And now I am going to conclude my chat on Winter Clothes with a few explanations, and a little advice about purchases, and the cutting-out of

MATERIALS.

It may be thought that I have suggested a very short list of materials from which to select a winter dress. To tell the truth, the essential part of economical dressing, both for young and old, is to choose good all-wool, and quite unremarkable materials, avoiding mixed fabrics of wool and silk, or wool and cotton. So with this view I have left out all such combinations from the list for your choice. Everything pronounce in style, or at all peculiar in shape, must be avoided, and for two reasons - that it shows the date of its purchase, and the true lady should be neither dowdy, nor antiquated. All peculiarities of dress are sure to be commented upon, and however good-natured our friends may be, we should endeavour in this way to avoid giving them subjects for either discussion or caricature.

CUTTING-OUT.

In cutting-out a costume, first cut out the skirt, then the bodice and over-skirt. With the aid of a little ingenuity, the under portions of the sleeves will probably come out of the pieces .Leave the trimmings to the last, at any rate, and use up the scraps for it. It will frequently be found that, by facing the fronts, instead of turning down the hems, of jackets and bodices, and by adding small pieces where they will not be seen under the arms, both the fronts may be cut from the same width of material. The safest way of proceeding is to lay all the pieces of a pattern on the material at once, as it will then be possible to judge of the most advantageous method of cutting it out. When it is a striped material, try to place a perfect stripe in the middle of the front, and in the centre of the back, if there be no seam. But, in any case, be sure that the stripes, or checks, match, and that those of the two sides correspond.

The straight part of the sleeves should come above the elbow, and the bias part below. Whenever anything has to be cut on the "bias" be sure to do so exactly, or it will not hang nor sit nicely. In cutting out a skirt, the front sides of the gores must always be straight, and the sloped or bias sides towards the back, carefully avoiding a seam either down the back or the front breadths.

In cutting materials that are figured, or that have a nap, be very careful to have all the parts of the pattern cut the same way of the material, that is, with the figures placed all the same way, the nap of the cloth running downwards, and the pile of velvet running either all up, or all down, as may be preferred.

And in conclusion remember three things: - that, to be really well dressed we must select such clothes as will be suitable wear when we pursue our daily avocations; that we must be comfortable, both in and out of doors, and that we must always strive to look exactly what we are; as true and upright girls, without silly vanity or foolish finery.

26 November 1898 - 'Frocks for Tomorrow' by the Lady Dressmaker

Good news, the Amateur Swimming Association are close to deciding on the design of the regulation swimsuit! Also this month, dress is fitted and clinging to create a tall slender ligne, tre-corne hats should only be worn by the young and beautiful, puffy sleeves are gone, and flame-red orange is a popular colour in French millinery currently, though the French hats unfortunately don't suit the current trends in English hairdressing.

The first thing on my list with which I must deal is the recent meeting of the Amateur Swimming Association, at which the vexed question of a regulation dress for the women members was discussed; and there is a good chance that it will be wisely and properly decided so that there will be a regular uniform dress in future, and all misunderstanding will be avoided. The material to which the lady delegates appear to have given in their adhesion is stockingette; which they consider superior in every way to serge, flannel, silk or merino. A model costume made of it, shown by the Birmingham Ladies Club, was so much approved of by the large assembly of ladies present, that it was adopted as a guide, the fullest liberty as to trimmings being given, while only three colours were allowed, viz., navy blue, red and black. The Birmingham costume had flat facings of Turkey-red twill, but of course it is open to any club to select their own colours. It buttoned on the shoulders, and by means of gussets under the arms a short sleeve was formed. The great recommendation, however, was its cheapness, as it was announced that it could be produced in quantities of not less than one dozen at a fraction, over two shillings each, in the various sizes required by the wearers, Of course where there are so many working women’s clubs, this question of cost is a grave consideration. The costume finally recommended was much on this Birmingham model.  With the additional advice that “it should reach, at least, to within three inches from the knee” should be cut square at the neck, and button on the shoulder, where it must be not less than thee inches in width, and where it must be shaped to the arm beneath, so as to form a short sleeve.

Now that swimming as a pastime has become so popular amongst women and girls, and when it is taught in so many schools, it is only wise to decide on a suitable dress, which can be modified to meet all views, and trimmed to please all wearers, and be attainable to limited purses, and above all, should be seemly to wear in a mixed assemblage of all ages.

Although we have worn the Eton jacket with more or less decoration for many years, it seems still to hold its own, and is very becoming indeed to many people. The same may be said of the Bolero fronts; both of these are braided and buttoned this autumn, and the braiding is generally in panels, while the buttons most used are of the fancy order. Basqued bodices with and without belts, three-quarter-length coats, quite tight to the figure, and a coat of the Directoire style, short at the waist in front, with a rounded basque and long coat-tails; all of these are in fashion, and, so far as I see, though all have basques, they may be long or short, according to individual fancy. The great desire of all women this winter is to present an appearance of height and thinness, and all draperies must be sweeping, and the outlines flowing, to meet with our approval. Flounces and frills are used with much discretion, so that they may not contradict the clinging effect. Skirts are, if possible, tighter than ever, and only show fullness at the feet, while as regards our sleeves, the last vestige of puffiness has deserted them, and not even a tiny pleat is permitted at the shoulder, and the whole appearance is that of the old coat-sleeve, which was originally introduced by the Princess of Wales.

Of course, with this clinging effect, we may naturally go on to say that the Princess dress that was worn by a few people last season will be adopted by many this winter; and the newest ones, if in cloth, have very generally strapped seams; the French Princess gowns having very generally a plastron, which is buttoned up on each side with handsome buttons.

In hats, we find the tre-corne much used in Paris; but this is a style only suitable to the very young, or very pretty, so that the wider brimmed felts are more generally popular. Many of the felt hats are made in two colours, the underpart being of a different colour to the upper, and very little trimming is used for them. Low-crowned hats of almost a sailor shape have been predicted, and the boat shape is one of the favourite winter models. Quills and wings have taken the place of the long and graceful ostrich feathers, the former being more suitable for winter weather; a large bow and ends, and jewelled buckles, form part of the trimming, and the hat-pins are sumptuously jewelled, and as every lady tries to select those that are most decorative to her hat or bonnet, they have become quite a feature in the head-dress of the day.

I spoke in my last chat on cloths, and dress in general, of the change that has taken place in the dressing of the hair, and that it is worn much lower; in fact in a coil that lies on the nape of the neck, the rest of the hair is waved in large waves, which lie regularly over the top of the head, and across it from ear to ear, while the front locks are curled over the forehead. The chief difficulty presented by this new departure is in finding a hat or bonnet to go with it; for all the French bonnets are made to go with the high rolled coiffure universally worn on the Continent, but never very becoming to Englishwomen who have good heads of hair and find a difficulty in producing the tiny knot of hair, which is the essential part of the high hair-dressing. The low knot is shown in our picture of the two figures representing the new winter gowns, and called “A Princess Dress of brown cloth”. These two gowns show exactly the prevailing styles of the winter.

 Princess Dress of Brown Cloth

I daresay you will have already seen though perhaps not quite relished the change that dresses are now worn with bodices of the same material, and the sketch in question displays this alteration in style. The seated figure wears a Princess dress of brown cloth, with revers of cream-coloured satin, one of which overlaps the other so far as to close the gown on the side of the front, and the band of cream satin is continued across the front and terminates in a scroll. The satin has a scroll pattern braided on it with brown silk braid, and the cuffs are decorated in the same manner. To those who contemplate having a Princess gown, I would say, be careful to choose a good tailor or dressmaker, and a firm material of which to make your dress, in order to avoid dissatisfaction with your gown.

The second gown is of green face-cloth. The bodice and sleeves are tucked with small horizontal tucks all over them. The skirt is one of the new ones, and is in three tiers, cut away from the front, and each is edged with a small band of chinchilla fur.

Long Basqued Coat and Embroidered Jacket

The second sketch shows a sac jacket of smooth blue serge, with a skirt to match. The jacket is beautifully braided and embroidered in black, both in front and on the shoulders. The hat is of blue felt, trimmed with blue velvet and feathers. The second figure wears a long basqued coat with a fur collar, and wide revers in front which taper down to the waist, and end in two tails. The cuffs are turned back in the new shape, and the collar is high and closes in front. The skirt worn is plain, and is cut in the umbrella style. The hat is a small velvet one, with fur trimmings and white or cream lace. The mixture of lace and fur indeed with all our winter trimmings this year is very remarkable, and contributes to the very light effect of all the millinery worn.

Cape and Muff of Chinchilla and Green Silk

The pretty sketch next in order represents a gown made of one of the new fancy materials trimmed with chinchilla; cape of chinchilla trimmed with green silk and cream lace, and muff to match. The hat is a very charming model, which is called by some milliners a Trelawnley. It droops in front and is made of black velvet, found the crown a very handsome ostrich plume is laid, and under the brim of the hat is a cache peigne of pink roses. The new capes of this season are, many of them, pointed in front and back; and are often caught in at the waist behind. Violet cloth has been very much used for capes, and this is a colour that goes so well with fur of all kinds that it is likely to be popular. Where jackets are concerned, whether long or short in the basques, the latter must fit very snugly round the hips, without fullness, or they will not give the effect of the newest style. Many of the basques are added with a seam just below the waist, and are marvels of careful fitting.

There is a rather strong tendency to use a great quantity of orange in the French millinery; the hue of the moment being of the reddest and most vivid flame colour. The other colours in vogue for the same purpose are green, some shades of red, golden brown, wallflower and much blue in all shades. For capes and coats putty-colour and fawn are much used, and there is a large amount of white used for trimming.

I must not finish my chat without mentioning the ribbon trimmings which have so largely replaced lace, tulle and chiffon ruches, especially upon bodices and blouses. Skirts as well as bodices are ornamented with gathered ribbons. The prettiest effect is given by using two ribbons together, a narrow and a wider one. These may be of two different colours, or of black and white, the latter being placed on the top. Plain bands of ribbon edged with black velvet, or with baby ribbons gathered, are also much used; in fact there seems no style of design which cannot be turned to account in this decoration.

27 February, 1886 - 'Dress: In Season and in Reason' by A Lady Dressmaker

There seems but little to say about new styles or ideas in the month of February. It is too early to think of getting new things, and our winter dresses are not sufficiently worn to need repair, and yet, with the increasing light, they will show wear in March, so it is worth our while to try to be prepared in time for anything that may happen. I feel sure that, to be dressed with economy and taste, all women need much provision. The extravagant woman or girl is always unprepared.

Black seems more generally won than anything else just now for gowns both out and indoors, and black velvet or velveteen skirts with black silk over-dresses seem popular. Coloured velvet skirts are also worn with black silk, and there seems no doubt that this old and well tried friend has once more returned to favour. Dark blue and very dark shades of green are liked for walking gowns and yellow in all shades is liked for the evening, a mixture of yellow and black being used by married ladies, and yellow and white by young girls, white nun's cloth with yellow satin or sateen, or thin white silks and thin yellows mingled.

Woollen materials continue to be the most popular, without doubt, for daily use. Rough woollens are more in favour than serge and diagonal cloths, and they are known under the all-containing name of boucle, a kind of knotted weaving thrown up to the surface on all kinds of smooth woollens, such as vigognes. The newest cloths are rough also, and there seems no doubt that this style will be continued throughout the year. But, as I have already said, very stout people must beware how they indulge in it, as these rough coarse surfaces undoubtedly increase their apparent size. Some of the new cloths are in light shades of stone-colour, drab, and Swede, but I do not think them suitable for winter-wear, and I prefer infinitely the dull red of the hues called terracotta or tomato, and a pretty copper colour which in some shops is called chrysanthemum. These make war looking dresses, and wear better than the lighter shades. The weaving of these clothes is not what is generally understood by that name, for it is not smooth nor fine, but coarse and rough, and very like the consistency of horse-cloths.

In tailor-made gowns I see that all kinds of Scotch materials are in favour; tweeds, cheviots, and the coarse Orkney cloths and velvet skirts are often used with them. Some new woollens are woven with a mixture of silk, the latter appearing in the shape of large stripes. These will be popular in the spring, I feel sue. One of the most wonderful materials of the present winter is plush with lace stripes in it, which seems an unsuitable and foolish mixture.

And now I must devote a few words to the newest way of making up gowns, so that my industrious girls may have an idea how to proceed with any dresses they may desire to make up early in the spring; and for this purpose I shall also select one of the newest shapes of bodices for the pattern of this month. It may be braided or not, as desired, of course. This bodice can be cut also as a round basque by leaving the same length at the sides as at the back and front, in which case it may be finished with two rows of machine stitching at the edge. I hear it said that we are to return to very long basques again with the spring, so long as to allow of pockets being placed in the long straight flaps in front.

Very large mantles are not much used as they were, except for warps in bad weather. The short jacket and the short mantle with sling sleeves seems to be the prevailing fashions, and I see no change likely to be made during the spring, except perhapsto the lengthening of the ends of the mantles in front. There seems an increasing liking for a small mantle to match the woollen dresses, and this will probably be a feature of the spring fashions. The backs of all the small mantles are plain and simple, and are tied into the figures at the back, the edge being turned under, not trimmed. This new small mantle is called the "Bernhardt", and it will probably be selected as the pattern for next month. It is admirably suited for making mantles like the dress, is very easy to make and takes little material and a very small amount of trimming. A pretty clasp may be placed at the neck. The new way of putting the trimmings on mantles is to trim the fronts, neck and sleeves, and not round the edge. It seems as if everything would be worn. Paletots, ulsters, redingotes, and coats are all used indiscriminately - an excellent thing for those who are not well enough off to change their mantles very often.

The illustration depicting an out of door scene gives nearly all of the novelties that are to be seen at present. In long cloaks the sling sleeve is the most popular shape, and the illustration shows one made of a plaid tweed, and one of diagonal boucle cloth, the latter having bands of velvet placed on it as a trimming.

The short mantle on the front figure has the new square ends in front, and the figure with her back to us wears a cloth mantle trimmed with grey astrachan, and a toque of the same.

The indoor scene gives one of the new striped dresses, and a gown with full pleatings in the front. On the extreme left a pretty evening dress is shown, made of lace,velvet and "rosary" jet beads. This is suitable either for a new or the re-making of an old dress, and would be easy to manage at home. The figure at the back shows a gown trimmed after the new method, with bands of velvet, put very closely, so as to allow only a small bit of the original materials to be seen.

It will be noticed that there is little change in dressing the hair, the only thing I remember being that young girls seem to like the Cotogan plait, which is made by plaiting all the hair together at the back and turning it up, tying up the end with a ribbon at the nape of the neck.

There seems to be little change in the shape of bonnets. All are small, many of plain felt edged with fur, and all the crowns are very much cut up at the back to show all the back hair. With this style of course the coils of small braids look the best, and where nothing by the way of hair dressing is achieved, the effect is anything but lovely, and a girl who cares for her appearance had better wear a hat. The newest bonnets have the brim cleft in two over the forehead, and all the trimmings placed there, generally of feathers, or a large pompon of cock's plumes. Grey bonnets and hats are much worn with black dresses. Flowers are hardly seen as the trimmings to bonnets or hats, and ribbons seem the all-prevailing thing in millinery.

All the hats seen are high, and the trimming is put on as high as possible. These seem to be no new shapes at all, save one with a high crown, and the brim turned up to each side, like a "boat-shaped" of the old days.